The following are repair briefs for various 
equipment.The infomation is directed
to technically competant repair engineers.Generic terms have 
been used to make this info less model specific,eg terms like 
replace transistor Q123 have not been used.
The equipment is Test Gear, Industrial and Boating gear, Domestic and miscellany , computer. 
I would be interested in finding 
any other repair listings on the internet structured as i have 
done ie intended to be less model specific. For convenience using search-engines, 
use keyword divdevrep to target these files.

There is no point in contacting me about any of the following, the 
repair job may have been done 15 years ago .
I cannot clarify or enlarge on any of the following.


Should the location of this file change please use the keyword "divdev7" in 
a search engine to find it again

Test Gear

Converting Avo Model 7 to accept Avo Model 8 probe leads.
ie convert hook connectors to 4mm pins
Unscrew the screw terminals. Find length of 2BA 
brass stud or length of brass screw and the central 
brass piece of a 4mm chassis socket. Grind part of the 
2BA thread so 4mm barrel section will fit on, Then 
high heat (hot air gun perhaps) solder the 2 
bits together. Screw in to Avo and push a couple of 
grommets onto the exposed 4mm socket parts.

Avo CT160 valve tester
Needle sticking. It is surprisingly easy to remove the 
meter on these once removed the 4 base bolts and 
opened up and propped up in the lid.
Slackening the 2 bolts and studs and nuts that 
act as fixings and terminals. If you overtighten 
these fixings it is enough to distort the meter housing 
and disturb the delicate movement.
To reset the relay manually just flip it 
back once inside, clean the contacts 
at the same time. The mains primary is about 
46 ohms through these contacts for UK 240V. 
The 210V/200V bulb should illuminate 
if this relay is activated but someone had 
disconnected this one.
Maybe of use to someone this meter 
movement showed 50% with 14.76 volt 
dropped through a 920K resistor ( for 
checking meter movement without main 
voltage over the place).
If the meter cannot be set 
exactly on the tilde setting/ mains voltage 
heater continuity especially if changing the 
EB91/D77/CV140/6AL5 rectifiers, reset the 
large preset on the rectifier board 
between 2.34K resistor and rectifier.

Avometer Avo model 8 Mark 5
Low or absent reading on all scales plus on AC ranges high variability with frequency.
New owner so unknown abuses. The select/cut on calibration etched 18.4 ohm resitor in ohm x 1 
range burnt out so replaced with mixture of wirewounds and low wattage. The 270 ohm 
resistor in the 3V AC line was charred to over 1K. One of the Germanium pair 
of rectifier diodes was o/c leading to the f susceptability.
Someone had hacked into the meter movement area (broken covering) 
probably to sort out false tripping cut out. Something was wrong with the movement 
100mV over the meter would give about 90 per cent fsd.
Whether loss of magnetism,deformed return spring don't know reason - the coil 
was not obviosly overheated (shorted turns). Put a 18 turn preset in parallel 
with the small internal dropper in series with the meter (mounted on reversing switch) to 
bring up the movement to 100 percent.
Notes - the basic idea is the chain of "current" resistors adds up to 8000 ohm accurate to 
the last figure,this in parallel with the 2677 ohm of the meter gives potential divider of 1/30 
in the 3V range with the 58K resistor .
With the meter in damped setting (shorted meter) foreward and "reverse" over each 
Ge rectifier was .95V and .29V on a DVM.
DC resistance of the AC divider inductances (transformer-like device) were
<0.2 ohm,0.7,40.5,873,1592 and ,<0.1 ohm.

Bruel & Kjaer 8306 accelerometer
Beyond repair, probably dropped and shattered most of the 
piezo elements at the core.
Probably originally 8 off 5/16 by 3/64 inch anulus discs 
in series along the stud.
Probably assembled by tightening up the internal cylinder 
with one ground/polished face 
that stud goes in one end and Allen bolt in the other. 
To undo, undo black covering and remove the pcb. Then stop the block from rotating and 
undo the allen bolt relative to that block and base with connectors
Tightened with loctite on stud thread to some predetermined 
signal output, then heavy block put in place and allen bolt tightened and varnished in place.
Just the number 4289 ,distinctive shape, in plan view, like a ship with a
blunt end and a sharp end, 4.5x2x2mm, black body 3 in line gold plated legs,
3 of these trannies used probably 2N4289 plus an E102 FET .

Crotech 3036 scope
Maximum intensity only
9x200V zeners gone high leading
to EHT of -2000V instead of -1800V
leading to punch through of 2kV capacitor and 
destruction of active components.
Replace all and uprate electrolytic across 100V  zener

Farnell LFM2 Audio Generator
Short lived function after switch on
and change of multiplier.
Replace the x100k switch

Fluke 77
No function.
About 1/3 of pins on major ic had disconnected
due to a heavy object falling on the front face 
of the DVM.

Fluke 77 dvm
Functioning but displaying about 1  percent of true values.
Large bodied 1K ohm fuseable resistor near I/P o/c.

General tip for replacing bearing in a small dc motors
This was the small motor in a CD unit (platter motor). To remove 
the CD platter itself first measure gap under platter with feeler guages,find 
scrap of metal with 10mm hole 
to lay over the platter coaxially to protect rest of unit and heat 
with a heat-gun on low temp setting and pull off the platter.Take apart 
the rear plate of the motor(prizing off) then by pushing spindle push 
out the rotor and brush plate.Again with the 10mm plate over the sintered metal bearing 
heat up with hot air gun and with a punch knock inwards the bearing insert.
From a scrap motor i could find a bearing of right bore but smaller 
outer diameter but packed with small shim pieces and glued into 
the original casing

Gould OS255 scope
Random false triggering, coincident with mains borne spikes.
Someone had removed the power cord earthing
to the case.Also backlash on mode selector
switch due to worn nylon pot shaft extender.-
partially fill the worn "socket" with hot melt
glue and push in a metal "D" section pot shaft
to remould extender.

Gould OS4000 DSO, 1981
NATO No. Z4/6625-99-647-3625
This scope needs the connections made to the 4001 output 
section for the scope to work in normal mode.
To remove that section remove bottom cover and then the 4 
slot-head long stud/bolts that anchor into 'C' 'clamps'.

Gould / Advance scope
Model not known , from memory probably Advance OS15 or OS 25
False triggering due to faulty ps electolytic leading to 
mains hum on the power rail feeding the trigger section

GW GOS 543 40MHz scope
no display,low EHT
EHT diode pump circuit fashioned on GRP circuit board with the board edges 
exposed to atmosphere bypassing the encapsulation and ABS housing,allowing 
ingress of water vapour and condensation along the glass fibres to the 
component leads in a high impedance circuit.Rebuilt on paxolin board

Hameg HM103 scope
Lack of flyback suppression
Replace the optoisolator

Hameg HM412-5 scope
No T/B and trace off screen to the right
CMOS 4011 failure

Heathkit IO 4541 scope 1977
No vertical trace.
Worn out pot on the v/div switch assembly.
Recondition as per tips file

ISO-TECH IDM91 DVM
Dithering values on display
Clean the selector switch tracks and wiper 
with solvent and spray with switch cleaner.

Keithly 128 DMM.
Display showing erroneous segments and multiple decimal 
points.
Clean off corrosion on the pcb pads that connect to the display 
via the rubber / wire composite Zebra bridging strip.
Maplin 920R pocket DMM
Nothing despite good batteries.
Compressed foam on the battery cover, added a 
patch of felt to pack out

Marconi TF2370 110MHz Spectrum analyser
Display and storage OK but no counter.
2 problems due to bad thru' board connections of one of these 1975 double-sided PCBs.
One through board link connected the 5V from the analogue section to the digital 
section of board AG1 that had knocked out the first 74s112. Replaced but counter 
only working in range 160 to 260 approx. Another thru' board break to the 7411 on the 
same AG1 board. Resoldered all such thru' board points.

Megger BM6 insulation tester
no function, no inverter whine
One of the BC214 had gone C-E s/c should be 
about 650 ohm C-E. On microswitch is 2 outer pins 
close and 2 inner pins open in use. Solder 
3 wires across solder points to simulate 
rotary switch contacts in M position, 4th not needed.

Nasty power trannie 'insulator'
I've never in decades of repairing seen the like of this one.
Insted of mica or blue/grey silicone sheet insulator under a 
2N3055 type trannie.,at first sight looks like zinc or 
mu-metal a dull greyish metal.
Just one of the 16 such trannies was B-C short and it was 
only this one that had been replaced 5 years or so previously by 
someone who had used this 'insulator' so presumably to blame.
On inspection/scraping it is probably aluminium with a thin 
hard anodised oxide top and bottom for electrical insulation.
The edges including the holes are bare metal so 
just 0.5mm or 20thou/mil out of position and the B or E pin will touch 
the metal edge of the through-hole . Also just the tiniest microscopic piece of swarf will 
puncture the oxide to make contact that way.
It is professionally 
cut and drilled/punched so not some misguided bodger.
I measured the "insulator" small holes.
diameter 2.45mm and the trannie pins diameter 1.05mm,sanding back
the oxide to metal the oxide layer each side and measuring
before and after ,Al thickness was 0.5mm ,the insulation layer
was only about 0.015mm or 0.6 thou / mil each side. Asking for trouble  I
would have said . On more of a safety note apparently there is a variant 
of the above anodised coating to aluminium. These are pink and a 
beryllium oxide coating so no scraping or sanding of that type.

Philips PM5770 pulse generator
Output on 10V setting but not lower settings.
Inside the screened attenuator box a secondary switch 
mechanism comes into action in the 10Volt position 
but was failing to return on spring action on lower settings.
Same symptoms for someone's HP 8116A 50MHz Programmable 
pulse/function generator but relay driver failure for 
that one.

RS 480-100 Breadboard
Loss of 5V power rail - problem with 
button bridge rectifier losing 2 rectifiers or internal 
connection.

Scopex 14D10 scope 
Low intensity and a rough sawtooth waveform at mains 
frequency instead of (no signal) bright line trace.
There are two large electrolytics on the mains side of the SMPS,
only held to the pcb by their wire leads.One had been jarred loose,
so resolder and beef-up the mechanical fixing of cap to the pcb with hot-melt 
glue.Also this pcb (with EHT supply) is only held by 3 stand-offs and 
with environmental effects the pcb had curved so add extra stand-offs 
between the board and the chassis.

Scopex 4D10 scope
No Y amp
Broken split inductor L101
Check drain-gate2 voltage on 2x fets if low replace one or both

Scopex 14D10 scope
Nasty noise from the ps and nothing else.
Using an isolation transformer and observing on a scope 
there was low level oscillation of the smps and one burst of 
oscillator per cycle of the mains.This smps is the type with 
the oscillator on the mains side of the pulse transformer.
All active components seemed ok and no leaky caps.
Putting a dc supply across the oscillator and varying 
the voltage the drive to the main trannie changed state 
at about 20V.Disconnecting the pulse transformer and 
testing with a megger (high v insulation tester) there 
was no interwinding breakdown and the inductance of 
the coils looked right (no shorted turns).Eventually found 
the O/P was being loaded by a faulty opto-isolator that 
gates the beam current.It was ohmic between I/P 
and O/P so removed and cracked open with mole grips 
(vice grip locking pliers).Looking at the transparent 
bridge under a 30x microscope there were tiny circles of 
mold or fungus that had grown and coalesced forming 
a resistive bridge between I/P and O/P.

Scopex 4D10A scope
T/B jitter
Due to oscillation in T/B
Replace fet BF244 (TR503)

Scopex 4D10A scope, 1977
loss of channel A which meant of course loss 
of trigger to channel B unless cross-linked inputs.
Trace locate returned both beams.
The dual FET E421 at the input was duff.
The S voltage of both FETs was about -6.7V 
instead of about 2V on the good channel.
Replaced with a 2N5189 which brought back 
the second trace but very low gain., the 
FET (S) dc was still -0.6V, changing the 
bias by changing -20V supply droppers 
2x 6.8K to 2x 36K brought the V up to 0.5V 
and useable operation, up to 1MHz anyway.

Scopex 4S6 oscilloscope
Trace is only a diffuse glow
The 3K9 resistor connecting 200V rail
to the CRT astigmatism preset was O/C
from long term overheating so uprated to 1W.

Seaward PAC500 PAT Tester
False negative indication
Replace the CMOS 4000 series SMT device
see hints/tips for desoldering SMT devices.

Tektronix 5110 scope
Jitter in vertical sense of both traces.
Jitter present with Y plug in present and pressing 
the beam finder and absent without the y plug-in 
pressing the beam finder.
Poor connection in socket J604 of the small 
auxilliary board behind the pcb with the sockets 
for the plug-in modules.

Tektronix 7603 scope.
No display.
On the low voltage regulator board there are a number of 
ribbon leads including 3 8way with no identifying sockets,2 8 way 
and 1 10way.Someone had positioned the 8 way  onto pins 3 to 10 of 
the 10 way and put 130V on the 50V rails.Numerous individual 
failures associated with the 50V and 50V sense line including the 
transistor array satisfactorily replaced for proving purposes with 
a 3046 array.Unfortunately one of the transistors in the U450 
Tektronix hybrid (3 push-pull amp stages in a can) was kaput so
no Y trace movement and defocused spot.

Tektronix 7834 Storage scope
No power supply
The HV inverter transformer had shorted turns,a matter of rewinding another 
as quote for replacement was 760UKP.

Telequipment D32 'scope
No fuction due to one of the 2 BDX36 transistors in the ps oscillator ,replaced with a 
BDX35. Also 2 of the 6 Nicads were shorted (dendrited) needed replacing. 
No intensity control due to ohmic 130V Zener. No Y deflection of either 
beam below centre line of the display; no negative going traces. One of the collector 
resistors to one of the Y-plate drive transistors was O/C ;replaced with double the wattage 
and similar replacement for the matching dropper.

Telequipment S51B valve 'scope, 1974
Central spot only , no movement.
Main DC line at 480V instead of 380V.
I don't know if as original but the large 500 ohm 
and 1K dropper resistors in the main DC lines were 
mounted underneath and the 1K one had at some point 
scraped the outer cover of the m/c both need mounting 
on the other side of the board.
Replacing the DC fuse and removing the 1K resistor but 
including the 500ohm then spot became a larger square 
and X-shift movement but no T/B or Y-shift/deflection 
other than the fixed square splurge. Replaced 1K and 
slowly powered up via Variac in case of problem with large C4 electrolytic.
No problems and full function so maybe the 500 ohm shorting to case and 
blowing fuse and not knocking out the mains transformer 
winding - someone had looked before me so may have replaced 
a blown mains fuse.

Telequipment 61a scope
No trigger
Check integrity of connection between
PC226 daughter board and motherboard,
and set R74

Telequipment D63 scope.
3 faults
1	High voltage discharge crackling noise. Even in the dark it was not possible 
to see where the discharge was so probably in the step-up transformer or the 
quintupler. The display was too bright and 
post deflection accelerator voltage was too high so much reduced trace size 
in X and Y sense.The CRT 2cnd electrode should have been 
-1400V but was -2200V so EHT probably 19KV rather than 12KV. The EHT oscillator 
transistor had been replaced by a BD131. Changing the biasing pot to the preliminary 
drive transistor made no effect. The primary of the oscillator o/p transformer 
was 56V pk-pk not the correct 38V. Although the DC voltage varied from 60V to 
100V altering this pot. One of the DC divider chain of 3x 5.1M was o/c so no -ve 
feedback component to the oscillator.
2	Traces in X sense squashed up to left of screen. One of the SPS5286 final 
X plate drivers was o/c replaced with BF338.
3	The third trace (Right hand PI) was static bright line with no Y displacement.
A trace to  330 ohm,1.5W dropper from 105V to one of the Y2 driver transistors was loose 
and touching another trace. With this 330 removed and no 105V then no 3rd trace, only 
appearing on beam finding activation.

Telequipment D66 scope
No timebase
Y deflection and X deflection function but no timebase.The high 
ohmic resistors biasing the timebase oscillator FET had gone high.
The drain of the FET needs to be about 2.5V before oscillation starts.

Telequipment D75 and Telequipment D83 scopes as far as p.s. and CRT drive circuits and faults 
are almost identical.

Telequipment D83 scope
Variable and fading image similar to changing
grid cut-off pot R315
Failure of D304 6KV,10mA diode

Telequipment D83
Inability to focus
R323 gone high ohms

Telequipment D83
After 1 hour loss of image
Associated with switch (trigger-auto sw.)
on T/B plug in

Telequipment D1011 scope 1981
No ch1 trace and no trigger.
Initially checked the 8 pin DIL dual FET packages.
In manual as SU2603M but on board were Teledyne 1125-00 (8006 datecode?) 
pinning 1-8 S,D,NC,G,S,D,NC,G so 180 degree replacable.
In circuit DC .1,5.2,.1,0,.1,5.2,0,0
I could not find data for SU2603M or 1125-00 so for anyone 
trying to find replacement I tried 2 2N3819 bent legs to match 
pinning - no trace and the S voltages rose to 1.7V and 2.1V .
Both problems due to physically broken front panel lever switch.
Neat design so choosing 1 of 2 positions of the dedent spring 
can select 2 ,3 or 4 way. Choice of phosphor bronze contacts can be 
1pole or 2 ,3 or 4 pole . The phosphor bronze bridging contacts 
are only held to the core by 2 plastic nibs that had broken. 
Each nib only 2mm diameter so failed as aging plastic.
Reformed 
bent contacts ,used broken nibs for alignment and well glued in place 
with hot-melt string. The detent spring is positioned around the small 
nib for 4 way operation and up against the nib for 3 way (ch2) operation.
3 of the four front switches were broken so rebuilt and reinforced 
remaining contacts including the fourth OK switch. One of the contacts 
was broken and irretrievably bent so fashioned a replacement from 
a phosphor bronze leaf of a lever switch but part from a relay 
would also suit cut ,formed and glued in.

Variac V5H
Could not remove brush housing.
Presumably should be simple push against spring, turn and 
pull but aluminium corrosion didn't allow any such movement.
Matter of hacksawing/ dremmel thin disk cutting a slot in the 
aluminium arm down to the brush housing to give enough slack.

Weller magnastat soldering irons
Open circuit iron after being dropped or knocked.
It is usually the magnastat switch that is faulty not an o/c element.
These switches are very frail and it does not take much to knock them out of alignment 
or even break apart. Take apart ,realign the contacts and reassemble.

Industrial and Boating

Advenda AD1 photographic enlarger timer.
Failure of relay to always pull off after timed interval.
A stock fault apparently-company advice to bang front panel with 
a metal object over area housing the relay after yet another spoilt print. 
Although 24Volt relay due to 
unregulated supply the relay on voltage down to 15V.My replacement 
24V relay failed to cut in unless whole unit was upside down.Replaced with a
 12Volt and small dropper R in series.

Avenda AD1 photographic projector timer
Intermittant erroneous timing say set for 20 secs ,start down count and sometimes 
would reset itself to above 20 seconds still counting down giving say 30 seconds count.
The circuitry is driven from a dropper straight from the mains. Simulated dirty mains 
was the only way to cause this count problem. Found space for a small 12V 
transformer and bridge rectifier to take the logic isolated from the mains except for 
the timing input 1M dropper. Still don't like the way this feeds straight into 
the clock input of the 50Hz divider IC.

Advena AD1 photographic enlarger timer
No display or function other than fan is active.
DC is derived direct from the mains and was only about 2 volts.
Powering up from a 15V bench power supply there was too 
much current drawn for CMOS circuitry with the relay 
coil disconnected. The 4025 was loading down  the DC rail.

BT DF100 Fax machine
Dead machine.
The external 24V ps was ok.
Disconnected main board and powered up outside chassis.
No 5V on the 74HCT chippery.
The Vcc pin on the UC3845N SMPS supervisor was only 8V ,
should be over 12V,cutting trace to this pin and trace rose to 19V.
Replaced the 3845,normally Vcc of about 14V.

Canon FC 220
Vertical blank stripe in image.
Toner running low and so allowing the developer (iron filings) to become 
insufficiently diluted with toner leaving a gap around the magnet cylinder.
Broke open the toner/OPC/developer cartridge to redistribute the filings 
as beyond just turning the cartridge over a few times. Used a mixture of 
toner intended for Mita 512Z and Toshiba BD5120 but left a feint grey 
background to the image. To break open the cartridge. The toner hopper 
is under the embossed instructions so lay this downmost ,OPC upmost. Release 
the 4 plastic catches along the width and 2 each side in different positions .
The OPC section will then comme away from the rest. Hold back the OPC shutter 
flap and scoop the toner topup into the exposed slot. AE means Auto Exposure.

Car alternator (Ducellier but probably general) repairs
Firstly to test alternator out of vehicle and 
on the workbench.Feed a low current less than 1 amp
into the exciter coil (the current path that
goes to the instrument panel lamp display, 
this lamp is functional as well as for display ).On spinning 
the pulley by hand with this current on there should be
substantial resistance to rotation and some
output volts.Most common failure on this test
is worn brushes
For s/c failure of one of the 6 3phase rectifier diodes
leading to no o/p. You cannot prove this sort of failure but occured coincidentally 
when the car was in for welding . I suspect using arc welder or TIG /MIG on 
a car can inject spurious currents in the body and blow even these high current 
diodes. Makes you wonder about expensive CD players etc could be knocked out 
in similar fashion.
I could not find replacement 50 amp barrel
diodes small enough to replace but
a TO-220 type packaged epitaxial double
rectifier from a switch mode power supply paralled up 
fitted the bill
Another failure mode was failure of the regulator
giving some but insufficient o/p.Fairly
straightforward discrete circuitry inside the 
soft sealed package.Actual culprit was an o/c .3W
6.2 volt zener so replaced with a 1W and resealed.

Claude Lyons TS2 mains voltage stabilizer.
Output following input rather than maintaining at 240V ac.
Problem with the 20mm fuse-holder with the 500mA fuse 
supplying the servo-controller.

Courtenay Solaflash 2 photo studio flash unit, 1982
Xenon lamp tube 
8cm major and 1 cm minor diameter , only markings 3X on positive end and 2J on
the other end.
Fails to flash.
Worked out how to discharge the caps and then remove the innards.
Remove 2 screws near the IEC inlet and 3 other periphery screws 
 to release end 
cap. Discharge the caps via insulated probes and at least 100 ohm/10W 
resistor before taking further apart.
Remove 2 screws on front reflector around 
the edison screw socket and disconnect the wires to the tube. 
Remove one screw near the handle and 4 around the slide out section 
and slightly turn to slide out the rear. 
1982 with components left over from the 1960s, those, don't even know the
generic term, flange stand-off flesh-tone background rod resistors.
At this stage probably problem with the 400V , 2A 2P4M SCR.
Nothing much else active, MPSA56, 2x 1N5407, 2x 1N4006 , BZX61C68 1.3W
zener.
The caps hold probably charge for hours after disconnecting from mains.
Putting a neon bulb and dropper over the trigger transformer gave plenty of
strike even in room lighting.
I've an old reserve piezo gas lighter that the metal grounding barrel on the
end falls off, ideal for testing this tube, but no flash over.
With 2 compact camera xenon tubes in series and a 1K, 10W dropper and the 2
camera trigger surfaces connected together to the existing trigger circuit,
it will reliably trigger the tubes to rather unstable continuous light ,
until I switch off , as 10W is not enough for continuous dropping.
I once triggered with the piezo gaslighter, proper trigger disconnected, but
didn't work the next few times.
The owner reported it would intermittently not work before giving up totally
, so I assumed it could not be a tube problem , well not gasifying anyway.
I've now tried 2 xenon beacon tubes in series and it works every time on
full or reduced settings. For continuous high rate of fioring 
it would need 4 such beacon lamp tubes
Also works every time with the piezo gaslighter
when its ground plate is connected to the flash unit ground
Now I've separated the tube from the reflector enough to clean the tube in
the area where it descends through the reflector
http://www.diversed.fsnet.co.uk/xenon_tube.jpg
I can now see all is not well.
The cloudiness in the cathode end of the tube (only) is on the inside and
there is a patch of distinct blackening marked with a yellow line.
General black background is conductive foam for picture contrast , the
yellow wire is the trigger wire connected to the loops around the tube, no
silvering. The gaps 2 turns up of the spiral wrap at both anode and cathode,
would they be breaks or like that at manufacture?
It is after all 25 years of commercial photo studio use.
The slave action via LDR also checks out
Powering up, switching off, and triggering with piezo and measuring before
and after V then 42 joules per discharge per beacon tube. It may be
advantageous to wire in a pair more of these beacon tubes to make 4 , to
spread the load, at 2.50 GBP each compared to 70GBP for a not exact size and
fit single tube replacement.
Neon extinguishes or flashes when cap V is low.
With the 5407 board removed it is possible to work 
on the trigger cct etc without having the 660V on the caps.
330V plus 330V. 2P4M replaced with TIC126N
1R5 big dropper in series with 660V and discharge current 
flips the reed relay which in turn trips the 48V 
relay (5.6K in cct)for recharge lockout.
Full/reduced power shorts the 100R and 1.5R
Globe lamp 150W, 240V
Also 44R dropper.
LDR feeds the base of the MPSA for secondary slave 
action from primary flash lamp.
Mains transformer in cct 980R 117H, 500R 52H secondary 
163V ac in use 

Demolux D6070 overhead projector
Intermittent light o/p.
Replace the thermal switch on the lamp reflector
assembly.

Diamond force by Diamond Guard Corp. ,diamond checker
Complete non- operation .
The rear panel has to be broken free from the front and middle 
section to gain access.
All 3 NiCads dendrited (short circuit) also poor physical 
integrity of the spot-welded tags on these cells

Digisonic 502 ultrasonic metal thickness meter
Display only shows 1 in all modes.
1978/1979 meter using double ADC ICs ICL7103A 
and ICL8052 4 1/2  digit converters.Luckily 
these were OK,the 74C00 on the display board had 
one NAND gate o/p stuck high,replaced with a 74HCT00 ok
The conformal coating may have been breaking down and causing an 
oil film on the board which could have seeped into the IC

Elu MOF 96/10 router.
Excessive arcing on the armature.
First problem the owner had inspected the brushes and had broken 
the pcb holding the interference suppression components. Bad design 
with small neck in part of board that seats in the casing . Needed 
hardwire soldering and reinforcing the board.
	The main problem was a short on one of the stators. Now how 
to disassemble the housing. Drift out the roll pin through the large 
diameter slideway pillar then the base will rotate around the small 
pillar to access the 4 screws under the motor. Mark and unplug the 
wires going to the stator,mark and remove the brushes. Remove housing 
and then circlip retaining small slideway pillar to remove the base.
2 long screws retain the stator housing.
On one of the 2 stators the exit wire crosses the first turn of the entry wire 
where there is maximum voltage across the enamelling and with vibration 
etc had broken through shorting out all that stator (bad design again). 
Forced apart and introduced some thin insulation material and varnished 
in place. Did same on the other stator pre-emptive.Reseated brushes 
with armature seating stone gradually raising drive voltage via 
a variac supply.
Measured Inductance,resistance for this 220V,3.6 A motor.
Each stator 6.1mH,3.5 ohm. Armature 28 section .75 ohm per 
section and 5.8 ohm across diameter that is across 14//14 sections.

ETA Tool Co, Leicester coil winding machine approx 1920s, later than 1912 anyway.
( An internet reference gave info about wording form on brass 
name plate on ETA lathes relating to the age, on this m/c the plate is 
just to left of the 7 digit turns counter in top pic below )
This machine had been in a garden shed for years and was 
seized up with surface rust, but brushing and lubricating 
brought the leadscrews, traverse reversal clutch etc into operation.
The contiuously variable gearing between turns and traverse is 
2 plates, one driving and the other driven, with a lead screw 
positioned jockey wheel connecting the two. The tyre on this 
jockey was totally perished. Standard 'O' rings are too small 
minor diameter. But filling the periphery with 2 small O rings and 
a rectangular section VCR pulley tyre was the nearest I could get. 
A rubber suspension band for car silencer suspension would stretch 
and fit to this pulley but would require cutting back the cast-iron 
frame to give space. Decided to use VCR tyre and pack out the gap by 
gluing a platter from a 5 1/4 inch hard drive to the driven plate. 
Ground down the edge a bit as a bit over size, also the thou per turn pointer 
holder needed cutting back. Paked out the 4 prong spring plate 
with 4 thick washers. Machine lacked the supply spool 
holder back tension arm. Made a pefectly satisfactory 
spool holder by mounting on a couple of ball races and spool 
mounted vertically. Then removing the felt slip clutch section 
from a VCR, mounted touching the spool and other part 
tied back to the support arm and different weights on top of 
slip clutch. Calibrate with different weights and monitor tension with a lever arm 
load guage. To even out the wire flow, pass over a pulley 
pivoted on a swing arm, pulled back by a light spring, position 
or change spring strength to match back tension.
The traverse scales on this old machine are 2 to 15 thou per turn 
and with the other 3:1 gearing and spindle 6 to 45 thou per turn 
not SWG as I first thought. Opposite sense to SWG , high SWG number 
is low thou per turn. Ruler in pictures is cm and 5mm markings.

Genrad 1659 RLC tester (quadtech ) , various models 1990s
The advantage of these older bridges in a production 
environment is the auto-ranging is much quicker than 
the more modern ones.
I have the service manual with schema and repaired 
a lot of these so a lot of info on paper for 
power-up failure display codes of 
555 5 .00xx
222 4 
just a 0 , sometimes flashing 9 instead
dealt with but would have to be on a consultation 
basis as a lot of paper records. The internal/
external voltage bias is confusing at first sight 
giving wavering displays in certain settings, 
but with no appled dc V, would 
seem to be as designed. Resetting the SRAM 
by lifting the IC , disconnecting its supply 
is permissible if erroneous data gets in 
there while still operating but a voltage spike 
on the D.U.T has killed some of the electronics, 
before blowing the "protection" fuse of course.
Otherwise problems associated with dirty keypad, 
key bounce and poor 6 line indirect connection 
to the keypad. Ground down the subboard standoffs a bit to give 
deeper socket contact. Very feeble toggle action 
switch that looks like a slider switch. Can be replaced 
with an ultra-miniture DPDT toggle switch with a 
bit of hacking/grinding back and repositioning of 
the pcb terminal holes. The fans have poor 
bearings but fan can be replaced with small 12V 
pc smps fans driven off the "12V" supply cap rather than 110V.
All ICs are plated through soldering so tough 
going removing duff ones but plenty of room for 
turned pin sockets before replacing.
Added a "bund" of a large wide rubber belt 
around the test slot, glued to the pcb, 
to catch any stray wires as used in a production 
environment. One of the nearest chips is a 40GBP 
LH002C IC.

GSP Graphix 4B vinyl letter cutter
Failure to complete self test on power-up
This m/c is like a beefed up Y-t plotter with extra stepper and double belt and splined 
shaft to turn the cutter knife to match the x-y angle of cut. One revolution of 
the cutter matches one rev of the this stepper motor and the notch on its spindle 
plate gives the initial 
index position.Failed opto-coupler so failure to find index position.

Ilford Ilfospeed 2001 photographic processor
Smoke and crackle coming from terminal of fixer tank immersion heater.
Severe pitted electrolytic ? corrosion of stainless steel tank around the mount of 
the immersion heater leading to small leak of solution including seeping  
between live terminal and ground leading to chemical smoke.
Demounted heater and cleaned mounts and stainless steel 
tank. Cut rubber washers and pad from lorry tyre inner tube.
One rubber washer between flange and inside of tank on 
unaffected side. Other side cut 5/8 inch hole in a steel plate 
large enough to extend beyond  porosity of the st/st. Remounted with rubber 
washer next to heater flange then st/st plate then large rubber pad then 
inside of tank.

Interphase 20/20 depth sounder and speed log
Missing transducer connector
The owner's dog had chewed the end off the lead and the owner 
had thrown the remnants of the plug and not the dog overboard.
Worked out which of the 7 leads went where.
Piezo black (RX) and blue (TX)
Hall effect Red(5V) green (O/P)
Brown and white 10K NTC thermistor for monitoring sea temperature.

Jobo CPA2 or D5270 Professional photographic processors.
7 of these m/c with similar faults due mainly  to condensation /corrosive 
chemical vapours mainly.
1	Erratic motor speed due to errant CMOS 4001
2	Catastrophic flooding in base of m/c.Replaced about 6 traces 
on the base PCB.Replaced combined motor switch and pot with separate 
standard pot and waterproof covered toggle switch as original 
switch disintegrated.
3	Slow and erratic motor drive.Replaced relay driver BC337 with higher rating 
Tr after checking back emf diode.Broken pot track so rplaced as in above example.
4	No motor drive due to defunct op-amp.Drive trannie and motor can be checked 
by taking the base of the TOP66 trannie via 1K to rail voltage.
5	No motor drive-Replace the motor switch mechanism yet again with 
standard toggle switch with waterproof cover through a convenient part 
of the top cover.
6	Intermittand motor drive with RFI on nearby radio.The 20V transformer 
primary had fault buried in the epoxy.Replaced with a 18V,25VA standard transformer 
mounted diagonally.
7	No motor drive. Motor failure due to build up of brush graphite dust from 
commutator wear and 
excess lubricant getting into one of the brush housings and gumming up the 
brush so it could not slide. To remove brushes bend back the 3 nibs on 
the back plate. Before remounting wedge back the brushes and with fine 
wire anchor back both the brushes then release when replaced in housing.
General note: to work on these machines disconnect one side of the heater.When 
finally checking without a water bath,with capillary sensor touching the element 
power up for short durations with the thermostat set to minimum and the thermostat 
should cut out.

Kestrel MIG welder
Erratic speed of feed motor
Broken pot control , replaced 2.5K pot with 
10K wire-wound in parallel with 3.3K .
 CEM Electronics board 
uses 7808,BU806,CNY17-3, LM311, LM324
MCP3021Z, GD4093

Kreonite CPE31 Photographic processor
Blown fuses F1 and F2.
The QM connector at the rear of the control pannel had corroded contacts that had 
then overheated causing charring and adjascent pins arcing across.
A general note for photographic processing equipment:- Beware of the bleach solution leaking 
on to electrical areas as it leaves a high conductivity film when evaporated

Kreonite CPE31 Photographic processor
Pumps and heater not working.
The line and neutral fuses to the pumps,drives and 240V to 12Volt transformer 
were O/C. Nothing obviously wrong other than catastrophically 
blown fuses. Replaced fuses and all ok while in attendance but another day 
a repeat performance of blown fuse.
Suspected intermittant problem with a pump so put 1Amp 
fuse and in-line holder in line with each pump. Again occured 
but only one of these 1 Amp fuses blew. It was an intermittant 
seizing bearing problem with one pump.
Another pump problem (Little Giant Pump) on a different Kreonite 
machine was no fluid transfer because the multipole magnet had 
become unglued from the impellar and was rotating on its own.
Cut 3 pieces of silicone sleeving arranged 120 degrees apart and pushed 
the magnet onto the rest of the impellor. Trickled in runny epoxy to bind 
in. No reported problem with chemicals in use breaking down the epoxy.
Another problem with the geared drive motor-no function. There is a Klixon 
relay as a 3 tag contactor external to the Bodine Electric fractional motor 
and gearbox. A small plastic plug nest to 
one of the blade tags had dropped out allowing the blade to move and break 
the wire to the coil.

Lokata CC/ADF Radio direction finder
Rotating ferrite rod housing - opening.
Don't unscrew the top metal piece. Undo 2 screws 
to remove the farings and then the multiple nuts, bolts and plates.

Makita DC9100 Drill ni-cad charger.
Dead
The click switch pressed to initiate needed replacing.

Metz 45CT5 professional flash gun.
Stuck in one mode setting.
The plastic radial linkage under the top setting dial had disengaged.
Reconnect and beef up with hot melt glue.Unfortiunately I had disassembled 
the compound switch and PCBs to get to it.This is not necessary as there 
is enough clearance to reposition the lever now I know how it works.Reregistering 
the position of these PCBs and switch elements is finnicky.

MTE UC 15? / U15 ?, 440 50 , 3 phase contactor for a 5 hp lathe, approx 40 years old
Open circuit coil.
Bobbin and cloth and wire 74.4g, Bobbin 12.9g
Core of bobbin 0.8 x 0.85 inches x 0.9 width
Outer 'diameters' coil with cloth wrap removed 
across 'flats' 1.2 and 1.35 inch and across 'corners' 1.54 inches
Counting off gave 6,250 turns of 40 SWG, summed total because the 
varnish presumably had part melted over time and coalesced so wire 
often breaking on unwind.
Outer, approx half, about 96 turns per gram and innner section 
about 113 turns per gram (see tips files for counting-off ).
Rewind of 6,250 turns gave 876 ohms, coil voltage 240V
30 gms of back tension was not really enough for  
the coil bulk to seat well inside the spool end pieces.
A second coil rewind ( for the reversing contactor coil which had 
failed previously ) using same wire and 
40 gms of back tension gave a more compact coil 
and 840 ohms.

Nasa Video Navtex (marine radio data terminal)
No display.
Black screen except at switch-off with a flare of green.5V 
regulator OK.Disconnecting the ribbon cable to the digital 
board and local mains interference from nearby fluourescent 
light starter would induce hash on the screen.The two casing 
fixing screws at the top of case were too long and had cut 
two of the pcb traces.

OJ ELEKTRONIK  Thermostat (Denmark)
Elektronisk, the screw terminals ,mains and signal 
rely on one pin soldering so torque on screwing 
can easily twist/ break solder joint

Olympus pearlcorder S909 dictaphone
Audio howl from the speaker on play,FF and REW.
Worn function switch ,cured in simillar manner to the m/c above. 
No need to remove the PCB as the pins of this switch are exposed.

OPC problem on Toshiba A3 photocopier BD5120
Scratch lines on the OPC but of course prohibitive cost to 
replace. A much older (by 15 years or so) sliding top Rex Rotary 7320 
m/c otherwise worn out had a good OPC drum. Dimensions 
of the drum were the same but the original central rod was 10mm 
and Toshiba is 7mm so packed out with rolled up brass 
shim to suit. One plain circular spiral and the other flatted to 
engage with the drive pulley,both heated up and solder admitted 
capillary fashion to make robust brass/solder packing pieces.
Rex rotary m/c is the same as Mita 152 as far as the 
mechanicals are concerned.
Toner compatibility for the Toshiba BD5120 ieT80P 
OK but neutral exposure setting may shift from centre
Mita 152 OK
LZR 1200 (Dataproducts USA toner) OK
Kodak Ektaprint K Toner ok but needs 50K ohm 
or so beween toner sensor signal line and 0V to stop 
the false toner replenishment motor on signal.
Canon ,unknown model,container 150x105x60mm with one corner cut away OK but grey rather than black
Agfa X35 no good ,grey background ,not white

Philips 390 Dictaphone.
No functions
2 possible faults as neither looked right and worked afterwards.
The internal /external switch on external dc input socket was iffy,the 
owner only ever used batteries so bypassed this switch and blocked socket 
semipermanently. The mode change switch under the speaker was loose.
To get open remove 4 screws and pull away the mode swich knob. To get to 
the mode switch desolder the 2 speaker terminals.

Philips LFH 0510 desktop dictation machine
No tape functions
The owner assured me that he had been using the m/c and 
the jammed tape.After taking the m/c apart it was obvious that 
the tape head assembly is fixed to the deck so not a matter of 
failing to retract.The owner had 
tried to use a Sanyo cassette in a Philips machine,they are 
not compatible.
Plastimo AT50 boat autohelm
Dead after rudder hitting rock.
The back stop of the lead-screw failed breaking free and 
breaking the wires to the compass etc. Compass wires red to 
the 7808 8V rail and black to negative. This volt. reg. 
needed replacing as no o/p and the backstop anchor refashioned by 
drilling 8 holes in the adjascent plastic and holding together with 
4 cable ties plus gluing up. Replaced housing screws with small 
O rings under the heads for water seal rather than plastic covers.
To dissassemble this unit remove the 4 screws holding the compass 
to the body and disconnect the 3 wire connector. Remove end 
clip and ring on lead screw cylinder so 
the tube can pass totally through the housing. Release the 4 
screws on the end cover where the power lead goes through and 
remove all internals through that end.

Precision Grinding (PG Ltd ,Mitcham) Optidress E 
Microscope and X,Y  Tangential and Radial positioning for precision diamond grinding.
Long term problem loss of radial transducer reading but more immediately total loss of display 
in all traverse senses.
Total loss due to break in the 8 wire 9 pin Amphenol M9P and M9s lead. The whole 
system is initiated by turning the tangential transducer fed by this 8 way lead. It also 
caries the signals to the radial transducer. These transducers are Moire fringe 
structures. To test off machine connect 5V to positive of Tx and 180 ohm to low side 
back to earth. This supplies the 2 IR Tx LEDs. The receive side seems to consist 
of 2 phototransistors with 2 optical gratings 1 for mm the other for imperial and 
for directional sensing. The grating is observable under a x30 inspection 
microscope. These o/ps each need 20K or so to earth to bring 
down the o/p voltage from 5V. Changes sinusoidally with position. Because the radial Td is 
closest to the active grinding area 
this 5 wire cable had been wrenched and a short circuit at the point of entry into the Td 
housing which was broken also leading to ingress of grinding dust. Apart from a good clean out with meths and 
replacing with beefed up cable and new end plate (cable end bent at right angles 
and seperately anchored to the end plate, it worked again. Beefed up all theese 
Amphenol plugs and sockets which were all broken in some way, with 
cable-ties embedded in hot-melt glue. A couple of the locking skirts were 
broken but same thread as some cut-down ,military connectors so used these.
Wire breakages due to bad cable anchoring in these plastic Amphenol connectors. 
Removed the inadequate rubbery grommet/compression rings in all these connectors. 
They do not really stop the cables pulling or rotating in the barrels. 
Replaced with 3 small cable ties tightly pulled around the screened cable. One inside 
the first cover,one between this cover and outer,hot melted in and another 
on the outside again melted in with the end of nylon spiral-wrap cable wrapping 
the length of the cable. Noted the ohmage to 0V of each of the 8 internal presets before 
adjusting as per instruction manual. The wiring of the 2 separate 5 pin ("domino" rather than ring)
connectors is not mutually compatible

Protimeter dampmeter masonry prope, with sliding hammer action.
Don't use in an awkward position so the pins are other than 
right angle to the surface or the high carbon steel pins will 
shatter.
Making-do lower grade pins , presumably pucker ones have tungsten tips.
The proper pins are 2 inches long and stepped diameters of 
0.08 and 0.098 inches. Start with 2 pop-rivets with highish 
carbon pins of 0.09 inch diiameter. Remove the aluminium 
caps and grind points on the other end. Push through 
the plastic housings and place 2x2 washers in the innermost 
recesses to localise the ends of the pins

Rexon SM2150 E, sliding saw, 2005
Intermittant failure and then permanent non-saw 
action.
There is a ventillation path around the electronics 
in the handle, totally clogging the internal 
space plus the 3 switches with sawdust. Contacts had arced across 
and burning the sawdust across the contacts.
Replaced the microswitch and reconditioned the 
other two.
Uses triac BTA26-600B and controller IC marked 
FEGO 153S 0439W BA49K1
2x 15K, 100, 25R, 5.6V zener plus 
another unknown zener.
Some unpowered DVM resistance measurements at mains plug
laser on, 1.2M and 6.4M in reverse sense
1) 5M, main power sw 3.7M
2) 5M, " 6 ohm
then reversiing polarity
1) 1.2M , 1.1M
2) 1.2M, 6 ohm

Rock-ola 451 , 1970s juke box
The main fault that I was asked to sort out was the owner realised that the
deck motor suspension grommets were perished.
He first tried removing the whole deck drive sub chassis but failed ,
reassembled and just removed the motor and replaced the grommets.
Unfortunately he had twisted something along the way , the mechanism
seriously jammed and he gave up on it for some years.
He (using levers) or  the mechanism  had managed to bend the the deck
chassis sublate so the extended angle plate/latch
from the disc-centre lifter was twisted. This latch then could fall and
catch at the end of the plate with the long slot so jamming things good and
proper. Also twisting the angle plate at the double cogs drive that connects
via long rod to the stylus brush arm etc. 
To remove the deck sub-chassis plate remove the 2 bolts at the 
transfer gearing housing the one nut on the stud through the deck 
and the nut on the far end of the other stud, access from beneath.
Gain access to this area by disconnecting lamp plug and speaker 
plug and lifting off the whole front panel.
Straightened things out and reassembled and that all works fine.
The chromed plate with the raised curved sloping section is positioned 
so that the chamfered lower section of the bronzy speed change jockey 
assembly moves over this chromed ridge, bit confusing if removed trying 
to find a second stud nut holdig the deck sub-chassis..
Secondary problem
Failing to grip disc off the deck to replace in carousel.
The gripper was kicking up before the arm retracts inwards so was above the
disc rather than peripheral to disc before grabbing and lifting.
The m/c has not been used for some years and and the grease in the
paired cog area had gone sticky.
Holding the gripper arm down with a bit of finger pressure allows gripper to
work.
Also using service switch to step the drive the gripper arm repeatedly lifts
and then drifts back (when motor switched off) during the gripper contraction sequence  
until the point at which the 
full lift drive engages. Squirt of WD40 betweeen the cogs and mechanism cycling  
cleared that problem.
I was looking at the manual and there are 2 ICs just marked as reference
numbers 45762.
These are pinning compatible with MC1437 or MC1537 it would seem, Motorola
of that era.
May even get away with MC1458 or MC1558.
Although not a problem with the amplifier electronics, just though I'd put
that info on the net as it does not seem to be out there, whether the actual
devices have original Motorola markings or not I don't know 
as I didn't look in the amp housings.

Sanyo Sanfax 100 fax machine
Symptom copy functions ok but no telecoms
Replace reed relays

Sanyo TRC 8700A 'dictaphone', 1986
No play or record - broken belt.
Replaced both belts. Quite well made inside 
2 motors. The 2 header connectors DC voltages in play mode 
and 0 is approx 0.
0,32,25,13,0
0,0,0,5,0,0.7(average),0.4,0.4

Sealine MC5500 Marine VHF tranceiver
No receive audio
LFB12 ceramic resonator gone resistive due to 
Silver migration round edge of one (thinnest) of the
4 internal resonators

Seavoice RT100 marine tranceiver
No function Rx or Tx.
This 12V unit had been run on 24V for some time.
Replace 2 1N4002 diodes near the relay,2 trimmers in
the Tx section were duff,one s/c the other broken.
On Rx the area around the TBA641 audio power amp
was totally charred,cut away the mess and built
a new o/p around a TBA820M.

Seavoice Seafarer RT100 old marine band workhorse
No transmit.
No relay click over on press to talk.
Break in wire at Bulgin connector of the mike.
Remade and filled the contacts area with hotmelt glue to act 
as cable anchor.

Sharp SF 7750 photocopier
Intermittently stopping showing fault code H4
The general Sharp reset code Clear repeat 0 Pause 14 did not work.
Near the main hinge at the rear of the m/c is a 2x9 way signal 
connector. Disconnecting this ,powering up,off,reconnecting and 
powering up reset the H4 condition.Fault was due to dodgy 
contacts on the fuser section thermal switch.As not a standard thermal switch 
i opened up the available space and put in a standard lower temperature switch 
(as not physically rubbing on the fuser roller)
I've since found the reset code for this m/c is CP0P Clear,Pause,0,Pause.Other 
Sharp reset codes for different m/cs are CROP13,C00C also sometimes these codes 
preceeded by pressing the print button.
Incidently the 
page count on this m/c is by pressing 0 continuouslly for 
a sequence of 3 two figure numbers.

Simda 3215/2 slide projector 
No mechanical slide transfer mechanism also broken focus adjust.
The main mechanical drive ,not the carousel stepper or inter-slide 
black-out function,was mechanically broken.The main cam of black plastic 
was broken diametrically initiated at the centre D shaped steel spindle.
This plastic was not fibre reinforced ;there was enough space to glue back 
together with hot-melt string and reinforce the boss with a couple of small 
cable ties.Similarly the plastic closure on the focus knob spindle had sheared off.
Made a steel bracket anchored to the nearby chassis screw and packed 
out with a block of PTFE to bear against the focus spindle.Crude in both 
cases but stronger than the original poor design.

Tektronix 4663 X-Y plotter, c 1980
I own one of these monsters and thought I would 
just make an internet notice. I only have a user manual 
rather than repair manual. But it may be useful for someone 
out there with a non-working one to be in contact with 
someone with a working one. I do have a 4662 repair manual 
which superficially is a scaled down 4663 but don't know 
about the electronics 4662 to 4663.

Toshiba BD5120 photocopier
Gradual loss of image to no image in about 20 pages.
Failure of the driver to the 24V motor pushing the toner from 
the toner bottle,both leads at 24V at all times.
The monitoring of the toner sensor / switch would apparently 
be 2 stage first voltage switches on the 24V line once every page 
if sensed lack of toner and then a higher voltage sets the 24V line for a specific 
time and then if Voltage not dropped back to low voltage disables the m/c.
The first stage was being triggered too late for the time slot to 
pass enough toner into the m/c to replenish,so adjustment was needed.
Also probably due to owner fiddling there would appear to be no way of 
holding the complete developer section onto the rear cog train so 
was sliding to front panel side and disengaging drive so attached a 
haevy duty compression spring that pushed against the main front access door.

Toshiba BD5120 photocopier
Total loss of image particularly at switch on. 
By switching off m/c half way through a cycle the latent image is on 
the OPC but no transfer voltage. To gain access to the HT driver board at the base 
of the m/c remove rubber conveyor belt section and dual HT wire carrier. Remove 
the nylon standoffs from under the base of the m/c. There are 4 wires that go between 
this board to a 4 pole switch assembly that is an interlock for full closure 
of top and bottom of m/c near the fuser area. This switch assembly is actuated by 
a triangular plate jutting down from the top section of m/c. This is held with one 
tapped screw which was loose. Replaced with a through bolt and double nut.

Toshiba BD 5120 photocopier.
Toner going everywhere in the toner hopper area but not into 
the archimedean entry. Perished foam that allows the toner 
bottle holder to slide into the archimedian position, so 
allowing toner to get into the housing .

Toshiba BD 5120 photocopier.
Clattering noise at switch on then engineer spanner symbol and cease.
The paper entry drop down arms would clatter up and down a couple of times 
and the cycle would stop there before moving on to the main motor start-up.
Under the toner hopper is a microswitch actuated off the cam/cog that operates 
the paper entry arms. Because of spilt toner or wear on between cam position and 
uswitch button the system was failing to get a set/reset signal from this uswitch.
Another problem - maybe preceded by rucked paper as that fault 
rectified after cure. Main fault was paper jam at O/P LED 
lighting but paper stuck at I/P with leading edge near OPC.
Cleaned rubber and clear covered rollers at entry. Also 
after cleaning the paper when fed in by hand showed less 
resistance to ingress before being rolled in.

Toshiba BD5120 photocopier
Intermittant loud squeal after 10 minutes of operation.
This fault and solution is probably applicable to all 
photocopiers. The squeal was so loud and short duration and 
no consistent part of the machine cycle. All bearings were 
lubricated and no pile of filings to indicate metal rubbing 
against metal. Just by listening I could not even determine 
whether the squeal was coming from the top or bottom,front 
or back of the machine. I obtained a medic's stethoscope and 
unscrewed the diaphragm and fixed on a length of polythene 
tube. Waving this around the squeal was loudest in the region 
of the driven end of the fuser roller and silicon rubber 
backing roller. The fuser lamp was slightly off centre inside 
the fuser cylinder and presumably after heating for 10 minutes 
was sagging and rubbing the cylinder.Propping up the two rear 
feet of the machine helped as well.maybe a bent baseplate.

Toshiba BD5120
Document glass leading edge motorised indicator panel 
dropped into the path of the travelling mirrror.
Relies on 2 plastic pivot points so just ordinary 
leaning on the wrong area can easily break a pivot.
Make up a support from this metal (to clear the mirror) 
to support the edge of the pannel.
Toshiba,Gestetner and Mita may have badged the same machines. 
Equivalent toner for Toshiba 5110,5120,7610,7720 , Types 64, 80 Universal 
is not a useable equivalent to toner for Sharp SF 7300,7320,7350 ,7370 
both by Katun , USA. No idea if the proportions are the same but both types contain 
Styrene Acrylic Resin, Carbon Black, Polyethylene, with same code numbers 
but differing code numbers for the organic pigment component. 
The Sharp toner in the Toshiba produces too feint an image for use and 
too high a throughput/wasted toner and excess build up of a toner film on the OPC.
LZR1200 (Dataproducts USA) toner required the exposure 
setting at the lightest end of scale for image.
Agfa X35 leads to black spots of dumps of toner on image.

Vibrodorm VRT/3 bed vibrator, 1996
Intermittant no control over the controller although 
red LED always flashes on r/c, sometimes worked 
if r/c right nest to controller.
All IR LEDs checked working.
Used only 6 (12) commands of a SAA3004P.
Assumed firstly it was problem with switch in 
r/c battery compartment or recessed on controller box 
intermittently swapping code channels, 
there for 2 kit use. Problem was due most likely 
to corroded sprung DIL socket for the PIC IC , 
replaced with turned pin one.


Volvo ,Sweden 1986 car door speakers
Litz wire problem soldering  between tag terminal and cone

Wolsey Spitfire AF0323,electric fence
Internally HT discharging from HT overwind to transformer chassis.
The water ingress seal was compressed so packed out to regain
a seal.The HT overwind at point of arcing was touching the chassis so
forced a steel rule to make a gap between overwind and laminates
 and then introduced some thin paxolin (FRPB) sheet.

Computers and related

Acer 950CX power supply ADP 36GB by Delta Electronics.
No o/p.
Short on the o/p,isolated possible culprit / false leads ie low voltage 
side of the transformer and one of the electroluytics. After cutting a 
couple of traces isolated to one of the diodes in the double centre tapped 
high-f rectifier GI UG18DCT. Replaced with a GI SBL1040CT 10 amp device.
Also in passing for anyone with burnt out mosfets they are 2SK2056 and IRF9Z34.

A H Electronics Backpacker 1 Metal Detector.
No function,no audio output at any setting.
Both ICs had the markings ground off ,one leaving a marking of C and the other 
a final figure 2. Replaced the DC level amp marked C with a 741C. Note if the outer 
casing is too near the large 2.5nH RF choke then no function although OK before 
mounting back in the casing.This became an intermittant fault with the machine 
only functioning when cold and not when warm. Desoldered the choke and remounted 
on the other side of the pcb to cure this odd fault.

Automaston Hopping Bunny toy 
Sorry about this one.
After a couple of bars of "music" the bunny should start hopping via 
the motor driven rack and half pinion - spring return mechanism but 
just cuts out at the point the motor should start.
Probably some current monitor in the circuitry and motor start current 
too high and monitor sets the circuit to stand-by mode. Motor worked 
fine on external ps,no shorts etc. Added a 2.7 ohm in series with the motor
resistor in series with the motor.

Bios problem with old computer.
I decided to use my old computer as a file back-up. 
So gave it a present of a new 40GB hard disk. But 
whatever I did I could not Fdisk / Format to greater than 6.9G. 
My two tame pc experts couldn't help. I decided it was a 
problem with the Bios, no website for the motherboard 
manufacturer and couldn't find a site for updated bios. 
If I went into the bios / Standard bios settings I could 
change the HD parameters in user option. Too 
large a setting and available space would be even less 
than 6.9G , one time only 45M.
Gradually increasing (by suck it and see )
cylinders and sector numbers 2100 cylinders and 189 sectors 
would give 31GB and 21,500 or 192 sectors would not work. 
So settled on 31GB. Then found a "hard disk exerciser" discex.exe 
as discex.zip to check if non-standard settings would throw a wobbly 
and it didn't.
 
COMMODORE A 500 ps
No output.
470Kohm dropper feeding control cct was open circuit.
NB the 3 pin regulator on the o/p side is used as a voltage
monitor.

Commodore C128
Malfunctioning key
The usual problem with conductive rubber keys.Repaired as in repair tips for 
repairing conductive pads but because of the extended resistance between 2 
contact pads on these keys used aluminium foil instead of compressed conductive foam.

Compaq portable 3, PC,failed dedicated ps
Someone's cherished early LCD screen computer that i would have called a luggable 
rather than portable. Previously owned by a famous scriptwriter 
complete with the drafts of some of his plays. 
For diagnosing fault powered from variac at 100v ,half normal mains for safety.
It was cycling every 5 seconds or so to kick in but not maintain supply.
One of the 2 optoisolators for the half second when ps functioning was reverse driven off. Bypassing 
the output C-E transistor 
by 5K allowed the supply to fuction but as drawing 0.5 amp from the mains at half supply voltage so 
only left on a second intermittently. Enough to show problem with -12V rail. Not the 7912 1 
amp regulator but the 3amp high f rectifier supplying it shorted.
Incidently there are high V supply rails for this sort of machine as well as 5,12 and -12V rails 
measued without load as 200v,220V and 5V going to the screen

Computer mouse problem
Where cleaning has no more effect on curing lack of positional 
control of the mouse.
Remove the ball and in the space above the ball mount a piece of foam covered 
in plumbers PTFE tape so when ball is replaced there is something more tangible 
than self weight to keep the ball in contact with the mat .

Connector repair dodge/bodge for broken pin(s)
on those 15 way high density D plugs
on monitors etc. 
I gather this is
a fairly frequent problem - i don't
as a rule repair PC equpt. The moulded 
on plastic connectors that would be a pain 
to break into to trace the wiring and 
solder on a replacement.
Obtain 2 solder type 15 way high density D cnnectors
one plug, one socket to make a back to
back "adaptor" then plug and screw
down the socket
onto the damaged plug. 
23swg tinned copper wire is ideal to 
wire in between. 5 short and ten long 
pieces. To solder the central pins you 
need a filed down solder iron tip.
Before soldering the second connector 
(socket) reverse and introduce the free 
ends of copper wire into the socket holes 
to align the copper neatly. 
Swathe in hot melt glue to hold in 
register before turning round and soldering 
on the socket.
Firstly use a cut down
high density crimp type plug pin
swaged/crimped onto the stump of the broken pin
then soldered as well. Pack out a bit
in other parts of the mating surface 
area to allow for the swaged lump. The "repaired" 
section will not of course mate fully home 
so needs bolting down to the original plug 
with the retainers extended with small stud 
and hex stub anchors. Bathe back to back 
bit fully in hotmelt glue leaving space for more retaining stubs 
to be tightened to the pc

Dell laptop ps PA 16, F970, 3A, 19V dc
Broken lead at the DC power connector.
Lucky for owner any short at point of 
breaking did not destroy the ps or pc.
Because of the ferrite ring not 
enough room to put on a new connector with 
cable protector protrusion.
Remade connection over the break, well 
insulated and then packed out with hot-melt 
covered with spiral wrap, in all enough 
to allow large piece of heat shrink 
ove to cover the ferrite and the connector 
and lead to shrink down to one long 
conector in effect.
Diode test at o/p one way 0.25V or so 
and other way after charging a cap about 1.4V.

Dialogue box problem in windows.
Especially freeware applications which assume 
a standard screen size/resolution, yours is smaller.
The box is too large on the screen so the bottom 
lie with OK,Close, Cancel buttons or whatever is 
down below the bottom edge of the pc display.
Pressing Alt-O,Alt-S or any such combination 
does not work. Try pressing the Tab key 
and step through to the last visible entry box 
and then one more , to the first unseen one , 
and press the enter key

email problem
This might as well go on the file as it might help others.
I run an obscure internet specialised site and part of the activity is 
circulating over 100 people in an email circulation list. In July 2002 
someone in the group but never identified had a rogue server/settings .
His machine/network was echoing each incoming message to up to 12 times 
a day to others in the group. 
All of them thinking the repeats were a system fault at my end so i 
revealed the hidden headers on these echoed messages coming back to me.
To reveal the full hidden header if you use Outlook Express goto File /
properties / details / highlight (mouse click and drag)  then Control+C to
copy and then paste to a text file. Some of the identifying features were
 server11.safepages.com ,  lialserver , nas22.somerville1.ma.us.da.qwest.net 
To get round the problem i used Blind Cc (BCc) instead of ordinary Cc 
and in the text of the email which contained everyone's email address within the 
group i replaced @ with ^. Apparently this is standard practise to use Blind Copy Circulate 
but no one had told me. With hindsight it now seems obvious the rogue recipient had lialinc.com 
as email address which correlated with lialserver. They had a mail box that was full 
and echoing input back to the internet and to internal servers which presumably gradually 
filled up more internal mailboxes for a runaway closed loop. The company closed 
down for holidays and the problem built up with no one to correct it.

Epson Stylus color 800
Somethoing fell on the corner over the ps, 
would not index , leaving power and 2 lower LED lit 
and the top one flashing.
Paper grabber arm was not rotating.
Removed the 4 screws to remove top cover 
and unstuck and unplugged the ribbon.
A loose black cog in the space next to the ps 
and the top slotted opto mount near the ps was bent.
The black cog had burst off the end of the long black 
shaft that caries the paper inlet rubber cams.
The whole paper carrier tray was loose towards the ps 
end as the retaining boss had sheared, undoing the 
other special bolt allowed that to be removed.
Note the position where the cog fixes, indexed to the 
rod and mark both before reassembling.
Pushing the whole paper carier tray ps-wards allowed 
a peg or 2 to engage to locate and locked 
in place at the other end after replacing that screw and 
swathing in hot-melt glue.
So it would be possible in other situations to cut that 
boss at the ps end to avoid removing the ps to remove 
the paper holding mechanism.
The 3 wires go to an indexing opto on the end away 
from the ps.
The previous owner, now throwing it out, had put the printer in the loft
when the black started running out a few years back.
No trace of black on refilling and many blocked jets on the  R,G,B
Doing the utility cleaning dance made no difference.
Manually sliding the carriage over 6 sheets of cardboard soaked in ammonia
solution made no difference, same with ammonia in the docking/cleaning
hoppers.
It is quite easy to remove the large round slide-way bar on these and turn
the inkjet heads upside down.
Then putting enough ammonia solution to cover to meniscus level, the black
and RGB heads, and very lightly moving a piece of cardboard around in the
ammonia water cleared the blocked RGB jets but no change on the black.
I cut a couple of small squares of sewing/habberdashers/miliners felt,
intending to lay both on the B&W cleaning tank but unpowered moving the
carrier across, one transferred and landed neatly on the RYB (not RGB of
coarse) tank so left as is. Placed half a drinking straw of ammonia solution
on each piece of felt, moved the carrier fully to the right to engage the
tanks uplift mechanism and left overnight.
Bit of a puddle of ink in the base this morning but on running the ROM dump
print test all is working fine except two jets on the black delivery - I can
live with that.
Had been in a loft for over 3 years.

Favicon creation
No good just creating a 16 x 16 pixel GIF and changing .gif 
to .ico as the first 3 characters etc in the file remain set to "GIF".
Easiest solution I found was to download small viewer and file converter 
IrfanView , load as gif or JPG and save as ico.

FSP 250-60GTV atx pc ps dead not even a flick of the ps fan
Chicken or egg
There are 3 HF transformers and an opto-isolator bridging the HV and LV
sides.
The startup oscillator, on the HV side, is a KA1H0165R whose o/p crosses the
divide to give a Vcc of 12V on the main SMPS controller a KA3511DS, both
datasheets downloaded.
This controller o/p should then cross the divide to drive the HV side main
oscillator to drive the main transformer back to the LV side supply rails.
The SMPS "flag" output pin goes high meaning no-function and no o/p pulses
for either push-pull output of this KA3511.
As the KA3511 monitors over-voltage, and more to this point, under-voltage
of the supply rails , how should it ever get started if it never outputs any
main drive pulses, so no main supply rails.
I can see the one large and two small HF transformers tied up with the above
process.
The opto would seem to link, DC fashion, from the 3.3V rail back to the
feedback pin of the low power startup IC to shut that one down.
This IC, with the reservoir caps, will keep the main smps IC running for 10
seconds after removing the mains supply (in the present unfunctional as a ps
state)
With the KA3511DS connected purely from a 12V bench supply
5.6K from 12V to pin4
REM low via 50R
pin 7 and pin 9 then 3.5V
Q1,Q2 both still 2.2V
did not get around to fudging 3.3,5,12V on p15,16,17 as realised 
it was a problem in the wiring to the pc front sw not a ps fault.
20 pin ps connector P1, pin14 (green) was not going to 0 
was the trouble, there was the standby 5V on pin 9 (purple) 
and no ps fan on in standby.

Irfanview
Beware of changing JPG compression factor and then not remembering 
what it was as this app. does not remember and 
sets the default as the previous useage. 
If likely to be changing this factor then keep 
copies of previous before re-working an image.
To copy/paste and merge. Select area of one image , copy, 
then open similar area box in second image, paste, adjust 
perimeter to match then repaste, repeat until fitting 
and then cancel the box to fix in.

Indexing large pdf files on CDROMs.
A number of CDroms at a radio rally being almost given away 
as there was no externally accessible indexing - you could not 
see if an IC was included without loading up each CD.
Widows explorer can "see" specific words in a pdf file.
FoxitReader pdf reader to read whats there, where the index/cross references
were.
pdf2text to convert the first 15 , 50 or whatever pages to text.
It loses spaces but that doesn't matter in this use for keyword indexing.
Unfortunately 2 pdf files  were 1,500 pages long with the index at the end
so had to go away for 1/4 hour and then delete 1,450 small text files as you
cannot preset pages on the free pdf2text version.
Then used AF5 batch file-renamer to put some structure to the file names.
(aside, A.F.5 is useful for creating a text file of a large batch of file names - 
AF5 /Add/ shift+click or select all/batch/save as )
So I won't be throwing them out now they are usable.
No wonder someone was disposing of them at a radio rally for next to nothing
as useless before externally indexing as plain old text that is easily searched 
before loading up the relevant CD.

Foreign unicode script on a file which corrupted the Google cached version 
of otherwise English page. 
I downloaded Hex Editor XVI32 from
http://www.chmaas.handshake.de/delphi/freeware/xvi32/xvi32.htm
That allowed me to remove the 2 characters ÿþ / hex FE,FF / ASCII 255,266 / y diaresis and p with
ascender that clogs up the front of the file, which you cannot see let alone 
edit out in Word or Notepad.
Apparently this is appended to denote the file contains unicode, 
the BOM Byte Order Mark and also Zero Width Non-Breaking
Space (ZWNBSP) . Google cached interprets this as inter-character spaces throughout 
the cached version and consequential loss of HTML action. The preview pane on Google 
is also corrupted because of the spaces mangling HTML. I'm surprised there is 
nothing on Google FAQs pages about this. Putting "ÿþ" and "h t m l" in Google 
produced 206,000 hits. Randomly selecting 5x10 of those showed 44 were mangled so 
perhaps about 180,00 such affected files.
 With Hex editor also "Replace All " inter-character 00 to (blank/empty) which also 
reduces the file size by half. 
Then a matter of converting the foreign code characters like hex
code [ 05D2 ] to decimal/decade code [ & # 1 4 9 0 ; (no spaces) ] which Google Cached seems to like and also
browsers. For smallish amounts of text for conversion: - in Word convert all 
end of line ^p to * , to concattenate and then break up to lines of about 100 characters. 
Submit each line in turn to Google ( much more than 100 is a Google illegal op) 
and it returns search string as &#....; form, highlight and copy back. 
In Word convert back * to ^p , saving as non-unicode text in a non-unicode HTML file 
and compare the result when viewed on a browser with a .png, .gif , 
or .jpg form of the script to check. Then add to English file.
For a load of foreign text use the block routine in XVI32 
and copy Hex to Word as a .txt file after removing FE,FF and converting all the 00 to 0D0A 
and any spaces/punctuation to 2020 or whatever as 4 characters. 
Giving a file of lines of 4 characters after converting 0D0A to ^p. 
Then make a macro for converting adjascent 
quad alphanumeric characters to decimal numeric. Finally changing ^p to ;&# and tidying up punctuation etc.
I used this Yale file as a model which reads correctly as English plus foreign script on a browser and is
cached by Google correctly
http://pclt.cis.yale.edu/pclt/encoding/
and a bare minimum of HTML eg not even LANG designation.
So with hindsight just save the foreign Hex text as unicode file and convert 
to decimal/decade form before adding to full English file and then can continue to save 
as ANSI and retain correct caching of HTML on Google.
For anyone else with this problem but where they have no foreign 
text on their file and accidently saved their file as Unicode.
Without a Hex Editor you will not see the ÿþ or double zeros that Google sees.
Suggestion: rename your file from XYZ.htm to XYZ_old.htm
View it in Internet Explorer and click View / Source, 
"Select All" the text and copy to notepad and name
the file XYZ.htm saving as ANSI and not Unicode.
If you want to check the file then download the XVI32 hex editor
 ( link above) - its only about 500KByte so
only takes a couple of minutes and compare the two versions of your file.

Google no longer indexing files in list form
After 10 years of indexing my files , only more text like files
continue to be indexed, same with MSN etc but not Gigablast, Ask etc.
 What is going on ?
 If you put a few words like
 stilsons pilewound
 into Google you should find my UK/USA tools translator site
 http://www.divdev.fsnet.co.uk/tool_terms.htm
 but Google is no longer indexing it.
If you know what site its on ie adding 
site:divdev.fsnet.co.uk
in the searchbox then the results appear as
These search terms have been highlighted:  
These terms only appear in links pointing to this page: 
or
These terms only appear in links pointing to this page:
despite the words being in the text of that page
I've identified some issues associated with the PRE function and will
address those first as it is, in my case, affecting files that are basically
listings. For my own convenience, looking in a text reader most of the time,
I wanted the files to be readable in a text reader and browser
simultaneously.
ie not a string of characters with no end of line characters. line breaks
and cluttered with markup characters.
Another point is my files have basically had the same structure for 10 years
with just the odd additions or deletions. Somrthing changed with
searchengine acceptance end 2007/start 2008.
Returned to Google indexing after a month 
and a number of crawl visits.
Turned out the BODY html function was missing, META statements 
should have been in the HEAD section and the problem with 
the PRE function was that there were HTML functions in 
between PRE and /PRE which is not allowed.
Eventually checked out with 
http://www.htmlvalidator.com/
after adding html 3.2 !doctype statement at top
but not via
http://validator.w3.org/
as too many URLs with ? etc in the URL


HP Deskjet 660
How to remove plastic casing.
Rear panel covering main circuit board - push a rod into each of the two 
holes in the baseplate to release that part.
For rest of cover first remove the small half inch strip at the left hand base by 
lifting and pushing to the front of the m/c,you can see the "hook " pieces 
that lock this fillet into place by removing the paper carrier and viewing 
into the left side interior. That unlocks the main cover which you release by 
poking a screwdriver in the slots in the base plate.

HP Deskjet 720C no paper roller motor action.
Someone had managed to wrench one of the 2 pivotting paper guides. 
These have "cam" end actuators and one had ended up above the 
actuating arm that runs parallel to the main paper rollers. This could 
be wrenched back again but the misplaced cam had jammed the secondary 
cog system and stalled the drive motor and knocked out the driver chip.
Motor OK but 44 pin plcc Texas SN104558FNHR running hot and no 
output drive to the motor. Could not find a replacement so no repair.

Hyundai HMM413 VGA monitor.
Loss of image but would momentarily flare to proper brightness at switch off.
Mechanically broken preset marked sub-bright at rear of casing.
Replaced 500K satisfactorily with a 100K preset.

Inno3d  tornado geforce4 titanium video card
Low resolution text screen reads alright but after switching to Windows 
high resolution breaks into an overlaid multiple image of wrong line rate.
Bearing on the fan was knackered and would stall.

JPG problems of apparently truncated jpegs
They display the perhaps about 80 percent of the original on
Firefox or IE (same cut off point in each browser) but you can't save as jpeg. You go through the motions of
saving as jpeg , no error message appears, but nothing saved in the relevant
directory. Other than saving to file as a rather useless .prn, printing off
the screen and scanning in , or photoing off the screen and montaging,
is there a work-around to this.
One of those mysteries of the internet/applications.
The emailed files were to a browser based account of mine that does not
have filters on it. Downloading to firefox or IE produced truncated but
viewable images that could not be saved to disc.
Forwarding those attachements from browser account to my main email account, 
with filters temporarily lifted to download, then saving those attachements
to disc as jpg,  then all 5 were readable ,complete un-truncated pages. I've
never had to do that before.

Modem - loss of modem speaker
As a result of a rogue dialler the modem speaker was disabled 
so could no longer hear the FSK dial out and ingrained familiar 
and so consoling distinctive beep/chime response.
Disinfected but speaker still switched off regardless of what the options 
about volume were saying.In 
Control Panel
Phone & Modem Options
Properties
Advanced
Extra Settings was 
S7=240
I changed it to 
S7=240,M1
then Change Default
and 
produced SD & RD LEDs flashing and "connection was closed".
M and S are Hayes modem codes.
Removing the comma limiter leaving just
S7=240 M1
brought the modem speaker back to life and normal service resumed

Modem - Failure of external computer modem.
Resulting from interupted power to the modem. After sorting out low voltage 
supply ,LEDs lit on the modem but no one was home. Computer unable to 
make connection to modem. Standing 50V on the phone line OK, on opening the modem 
there were 12V,-12V and 5V rails so probably OK. Put an RS 232 LED checker in line with the 
pc to modem lead. From the pc active negative on lines (pin) - TD (2), RTS (4) and DTR (20)
and on the modem on its own active positive on CTS (5), DSR (6) and active negative 
on RD (3), DCR (8) ,so all ok so far . No flickering LEDs when clicking to dial out. 
Windows 2000 has a failing (feature) of "disconnecting" modems 
if found not powered up when the pc is powered up and does not advice you of this when repowering the pc. 
Windows 98 does not have this "feature".

Mouse troubles
Fails to move cursor unidirectionally
That is moves easily ,say,l-r but not r-l or up-down 
but not down-up.Reduce the spring action on the third 
dummy balancing rotating wheel that pushes against 
the mouse ball.

Nero 6 install of CD writer
CD writer not recognised, the relevant last page before 
is whited out in the drive pannel and "Burn" button 
greyed out.
Go More/Configure/ expert features
Tick "Enable all suoorted recorder formats 
for the image recoreder".
If the apply/ok button is missing below the bottom 
edge of the screen press ALT-K for OK , 
other panes it is ALT-O

Nintendo Game boy DMG 01
One line and click on switch on then a few lines and another click then nothing.
The DC top DC converter seemed to be working 6V to 5V and -26V.
Did all usual checks making and breaking connector,switches 
etc ,reassembled and worked.Possibly poor ps input socket as similar 
result is obtained with using a current limited 6V suply as original fault.

Nintendo Gameboy DMG01
Zilch on battery power
New set of ni-cads had slightly smaller positive 
end terminals and not engaging with the contacts.
Packed out behind the interconnect busses and removed 
part of the plastic surround to the 6V terminal to make 
consistent contact.

Potrans ITE power supply for Time Cybernote 953E laptop
Dead ps due to short in DC lead at point of exit from 
the ps box due yet again to over tidy owner (always seems to 
be female) wrapping the cord tightly around the ps case.
Replaced with high current dual lead rather than co-ax

Relisys TE770 monitor
Only 3 years old, LED blinking and relay clicking on and off.
The "on/off" switch short-circuits the mains 
SMPS side of the opto isolator
to switch "off" the monitor, bit unusual.
Stable 7V or so on the driver side of the opto-isolator
and a 7805 gives a stable 5V for the micro area.
Failed to repair, the NT6827 OSD chip was 
loading down the 5V line. Cutting the rail to that 
chip meant the monitor would power up as far as high V 
generation but nothing on screen. Forcing the 3 RGB 
lines from that chip made no difference.

Rogue Dialler and killed modem speaker
Rogue dialler but first indication was the 
dialling & beep/chime acknowledgement disappeared 
from modem. Bit of a  giveaway really.
Nothing I could do in modem options would bring 
it back. 
In rasphone.pbk Speaker=1 and Dialmode=1 seemed 
correct. 
In Control Panel 
Phone & Modem Options 
Properties / Advanced / Extra Settings was 
S7=240 
As this was a Hayes code , I changed it to 
S7=240,M1 
then Change Default 
and 
produced SD & RD modem LEDs alternate flashing and "connection was 
closed" dialogue box.
Removing the comma limiter leaving just 
S7=240 M1 
brought the modem speaker back to life and 
normal service resumed. 

Shotz Smart Digital Camera ,SS 2000, installing on Windows 98SE
A page relating to problems with 98SE came with the instructions.
RPC stub error relating to oleaut.dll dating, the solution was 
supposed to be, download files from their site rather than their CDROM.
This may well be possible but I could not make it work, first time 
used a USB port on this pc compounding matters.
Downloaded mcrepair.exe from microsoft and selected backdating 
option. Then, as I don't consider myself stupid a tip relating 
to Microsoft "Scanners and Cameras" installation wizard. 
I was exiting at point where you have to select port Serial 1 or 2 
or Parallel port - no USB showing up althogh apparently installed. 
Ignore, by selecting Parallel, and the camera drivers can be 
installed employing USB by default anyway. 
For people not often using the camera - notes
1/ When starting to download the software is not specific 
and you have to select from menu. There is no specific SS 2000 
to select and thinking SS=Single Shotz then leads to "no device found" 
error - SS=Smart Shotz.
2/ The other default selection is "download and delete camera memory", 
you have to actively select the other option to retain camera contents 
which seems bad arrangement.

Shotz Smart Digital Camera ,SS 2000
Converting the "shutter release" for macro photography.
Too much pressure required to manually press the release switch 
leading to camera shake in a magnified set-up.
Remove 5 obvious screws plus the one under the battery cover.
Pull the cover off and unattach the sounder, incidently the same process 
to put an external break in the line to the sounder for covert use of camera.
Remove screw through internal battery holder and the 2 near the viewfinder 
and pull away from the USB/AV socket hole and bend out the chrome section 
to free the plastic lugs 
so both PCB sections can be removed in one for minimal disturbance to 
the boards. Remove the now loose AV rubber cover, 
and viewfinder.
A lead to the earthy side of the switch is easy but the other side needs 
finely melting away some of the plastic of the switch to expose 
the contact to solder to.
Find a space to drill 2 holes through the casing to mount 2 connectors 
from a butchered turned pin DIL socket for external connection 
in parallel to the switch

Twinhead Supernote SX laptop / notebook computer.
I never powered up at first sight as the ribbon cable to the LCD screen was 
obviously damaged so don't know what the screen appearance was. Usual long term 
flexure at the hinge problem. Replaced the phenolic 
brown section of the ribbon to the LCD with standard ribbon cable soldered at one end to 
the sort of in line connector in the hinge area and the solder points on the pcb connector 
on the daughter board. Could not find much component level info on laptops so here is 
some further detail. To open the screen surround; remove the Twinhead label and 3 rubber 
bumpers. When surround removed refix the small hinge side back to the body. To remove 
the keyboard undo screws and 2 pot knobs and unclip the surround from left and space bar edges and then pull 
and lift away from the screen end. The 3V memory battery is located under the cartouche shaped 
label under the m/c. 
High voltage back light supply. Comes on a couple of seconds after main board power-up. 
Mounted under screen in raised pod. 4 wires in - 2 wires out. The T5001 TI SMD in operation 
had pin1 6.7V,p2 12.4V,p3 1.6,p4 1.6,p5 .7,p6 3V,p7 1.6V,p8 .5V measured to battery neg.
12Volt pulses on Tx primary/C8 Cap of about 40 KHz. Putting DVM (2KVolt range) on the Tx o/p 
loaded and stopped back light. Connected in series between the 
2 backlight wires 100 M ohm,1N4006 and 220nF and measured with DVM 
voltage over 220nF,should have used high f rectifier but never mind. On first applying DVM 
measured rectified  voltage greater than 4V dropping to steady state 
of 1.1 V all 
with the LCD illuminated at the same time.
The secondary resistance of the TX was 215 ohm so step up pulse voltages must 
be well in the hundreds (3KV rating capacitor on output). 
Changing brightness reduces the pulse amplitude. 
With drive disconnected 
the 2 wires to the backlight registered 55pF on a 1KHz capacitor meter and no apparent 
resistance on 20M DVM range.
On the main board the Linear Technology LT1170CT showed 1.6,1.7,.4,5.4,5.4 volts 
relative to battery negative. CMOS setup for Conner CP2064 was spare type number 
with 823 cyl,4 heads,0 pre,0 LZ,sec 38

Windows SP4 Service Pack installed - then near dead pc
Win2k installed SP4 fine but on reboot it gets to the flying window pane
and then shuts down the power supply just like pressing the machine reset
button.
Then just cycles through this route and never opens windows.
Same trying "Safe Mode" or other f8 options,
also "repair" from original CD or from the 4 floppy start up / boot disks
does the same.
Can only put old DOS on a: drive but cannot access c:
in any way.
Recovery Console just allowed to check 
the c: file structure and nothing much else
Tried fixboot , fixmbr from the CD but still no windows access in safe mode.
HD plugged in as D: on a friend's pc with XP, same file structure.
Didn't have to change BIOS setting or anything other than a virus scan, 
to copy across to CD-rom

Wxtide32 Tide calculator.
If your pc keeps latching up if you stray too 
far back or forwards from the current date try 
changing your pc clock to about the date of interest 
and then start the program.

Zoom 286A modem
random flashing LEDs then nothing
Was powered up from 9V ac , not 9V dc.
Replaced the 7805 regulator, beware multilayer board

Domestic and Miscellany

Amstrad AB800 cordless phone handset
Telescopic aerial dropped out.
As the owner in his efforts to get the handset appart so it 
looked as though it was eaten by a dog it is probably worth explaining 
how to get inside.Remove battery cover then unplug and remove battery 
and the ellusive screw is under the battery. No lock nut on the base of 
the aerial so free to unscrew so reconnected and locked in place with 
liberal dose of hot-melt glue.

Bicycle pedal crank (aluminium cranks on squared steel shaft) removal.
Where the Al sort of welds itself to the steel and riding around with the 
retaining nut loose will not free up this join.
The chainwheel side removed satisfactorily, with heating as well, 
with  a standard large bearing/hub-puller as the puller
tangs can settle around inside parts of the chainwheel. But the 
left hand crank is not so amenable.
Found this maybe home-made tool obviously not designed 
for bike use as the U slot was too big and needed to packed out with 
a couple of bars straddling the slot. I will describe the tool 
in case a standard tool. For bike use all dimensions except the 
screw parts could be smaller , certainly the circle ended slot reduced to 
3/4 to 1 inch wide .
2 off 1/4 inch plates 3.5 inch square. Near to each corner 4 long bolts 
3/8 inch diameter with covering 1/2 inch hollow rods 4 inch long so forming a cube shape. 
One plate having a U slot 1.5 inches width ending in circle centred 
on centre of plate. The centre of the other plate a steel block 
3/4 inch thick and 1.5 inch sides welded to this plate. Then that plate and block 
tapped with thread to take a half-inch diameter stud part of a long bolt. 
On the external part of this stud a nut was somehow fixed without 
welding so a socket wrench could act on it, leaving some exposed thread so could 
be hammered. I don't see why this nut could not be welded to the thread.
On the bike , slacken the recessed nut about one turn. 
Fit this extractor around and wind up using socket wrench. 
Keep the pedals on to apply back torque. 
The slackened nut will protect the thread and localise 
the central extractor stud. Unlikely to free even with a lot 
of force. Don't start adding scaffold tube. Heat the aluminium 
up with a butane blow lamp and at some point there 
should be  aloud crack as the seizure breaks.
Reminder: Left hand pedals use left hand thread so 'tighten' 
up to undo, if that makes sense.

Bicycle pedal problem.
Because of formulation of 'rubber'on pedal and 
shoes there is not enough frivtion and consequentially 
a high risk of a foot slipping off a pedal.
Obtain a motor-cycle inner-tube and cut off a 
inch wide or so bands and stretch over each pedal.

More bike tips.
On the cheek straps of helmets paint the inner 
surface of the straps a contrasting colour so its 
a lot easier unravelling each time of putting on.
For the simple mechanical odometer/tripmeter 
devices - for a lost activation pin that is 
fixed to a spoke - brass ground/earth terminals 
that are used in elctrical wiring are excellent. 
Just cut a slot in the barrel to slide over the  spoke.
Once a chain revolution at one point in the chain it takes up the 
set of the chainwheel, because of a tight link,
 rather than hangs loose through the derailleur 
and so makes a clatter noise through the derailleur.
No tooth jumping for it is pulled straight in the forced part of the chain.
All you need is a pair of carrier bags as gloves and a bit of chalk to mark the offending
link/s and gradually increase the amount of hand force applied each attempt.
Firmly hold the chain either side of the tight link 
and bend horizontally one way and then the other.
The chain does not collapse out of line vertically when so bending laterally.

One pump for Schrader and Presta bike valves
If you end up with both types of innertube.
That is Schrader (car type) and Presta (captive 
lock down knurled nut) and don't want to 
cary around 2 pumps.
Assuming you have a Presta type pump then rob the 
attachement end off a car tyre pump and a Presta 
valve from an old inner tube. Hack saw off the flared 
end of the brass, release the captive nut. Cover the thread with PTFE tape  
and turn/push in half and half two pieces 
of reinforced polythene tube or similar to make 
a non return valve. Fit half a Prestra type adapter 
to one piece of tube and the car pump piece to 
the other. Cover each joint with a wrap around 
type Jubilee clip (worm drive hose clip ), not the type that leaves a 
gap under the screw. For the opposite 
ie a car type footpump then cut the presta end 
off a non-cloth covered polythene tube 
part of a hand pump and push into 
the car type connector, it may hold well 
enough when the groipping lever is rotated.

Snot filled bicycle inner tubes - whats the secret ?
I can see part of it is pumping up after puncture and riding or at least
upturning bike and rotating the wheel to spin the snot around to replace
leakage over puncture hole.
What other tips ? and when do you concede defeat (re-opening
puncture/deflation) and
know there will never be a reliable reseal ?
One rule of thumb from recent experience.
If you can hear air coming through the puncture , without having to put your
ear near any part of the tyre, then it will not form a permanent seal.
Next problem, how to avoid the snot from interfering with patching before
re-use.

Leaking Presta type screw down valve
Brand new but unused for a couple of years and 
the central plunger was seized outwards, eventually 
freeing this spindle , the seal must have broken or perished 
inside.
Cut an inch piece of hot-melt glue stick (just because it 
is deformable). Drilled a hole most way through axially 
with a 3/16 drill. Force the stick over the valve whilst 
"screwing" on and compress to the metal valve barrel 
with a small (fully wrap-around ) jubilee/hose clip

Derailleur block removing tool
Proper 12 splined/fluted removal tool one size 23.2 mm between protrusions 
and 21.6 between flutes.
Other size , corresponding measurements are 22.6 and 21mm
For this one starting with a 1/2 inch BSW bolt for the larger size. 
Ground down on a bench grinder until 20.5mm across flats  of the bolt head, 
22.8mm across 'points' which were slightly ground back to clear.
Packed out the shank of the bolt with some washers to fill up 
the recess in the block to localise better and screwed on nut 
tightly. Hacksawed off the remaining thread except 2 threads and well hammered the 
end of the bolt into the  nut. Push bolt into block recesss so 
6 of the 12 flutes are engaged and apply socket spanner to the nut 
handle extended with tube to about wheel rim radius for enough foot-pounds torque.

Replacing a pedal that will not stay screwed into the crank because 
the aluminium thread  is stripped. 
Removed pedal and took apart. 
Incidently 11 off 4mm ball bearings each end of this pedal.
With bench grinder grind down the bulk of the metal where the pedal 
spanner goes just leaving enough for a thin pedal spanner for purchase 
and grind down to a diameter a bit less than the thread diameter.
Cut back part of the innermost end of the pedal to clear the crank 
to give pedal spanner access. Screw in so that unused innermost section 
of aluminium thread is engaged and because this one happened 
to be right hand pedal screwed a small olive coloured nut off a small 
military connector on the protruding innermost thread end. 
For left side pedal presumably swage part of protruding thread 
with a centre/pin punch to lock in place
Pedal is a half inch closer to centre but not noticable in use. 

Bike chain link removal / remaking
Start the pin on a link moving with a link removing tool. 
Knock through with a pin punch.
Reassembly check for right length of chain around the cogs 
but before linking back remove tension by taking off the chainwheel.
Squash the pin just the thickness of the link with parallel jaw 
pliers or engineer's clamp. Align both ends and pust home flush 
with opposite side. Then lightly hammer until evenly protruding.
Hammer each side in turn with a large metal block on the other side.
File a notch on the link for future reference.


Another bike tip.
Useless shaft connecting cheapo rearview mirror to handlebar.
Don't know what the material property is but when twisted or 
bent into correct position it would relax/creep out of alignment.
Consisted of 2 stout wires buried in molded plastic 
which would not keep set position.
From a long wedge of wood, about 5 degree,left rough cut, saw 
some inch long pieces and drill 
holes in the middle of each section. Removed this plastic 
spine and made a loop of bungie through the wedge bits 
and around a screw retainer in the mirror end. Pulled 
tight and knotted inside the mount around a bolt in 
that area. Pack out with holed rubber washers to 
tension up or cover with bands cut from a motorcycle 
inner tube. Rotate the wedged bits individually to get the right angle and 
rotate the mirror for the other angle. If knocked then 
no damage and may even flip back into correct position.
A refinement is obtain a convex mirrror from 
car bits "blind spot" mirror. Hacksaw off the mount 
leaving the mirror secured in a rim of plastic 
and hot-melt glue to the above frame after removing 
the flat mirror. The ideal mirror would be flat 
at the centre and convex periphery

Binatone answer machine , model 3900 from 1981
Not responding , no outgoing message
Probably due to distorted drive band on OGM 
deck, deformed/perished? into a "V" at one point 
so if stopped at that point 
probably slipped. Changed all bands, cleaned relay 
and manual function change switch contacts.
2 line phone line only

Bird Scarer
Scenario - soon after dawn every morning starlings 
sqabbling and clog-dancing about the gutter and eaves - 
an infernal racket, enough to wake the dead.
Found a pocket transistor radio and a small speaker.
Wired the speaker with long wires to a 3.5mm 
earphone jack. Put a push switch in line with the 
battery. Placed the speaker in the loft, directed 
to the eaves and tuned the radio off station on the 
medium wave to give a nice hiss.
Starlings promptly disappeared , telling their 
mates "here be dragons" and found somewhere else to 
stomp.

Bog flush system - retro-fitted 2 level.
After putting the bags of water in the cistern to reduce the amount 
of flushing water. Then need an over-ride to let in more water 
to flush 'big dumps'.
Seemed a neat idea for making a 2-level flush from an old simple flush
mechanism.
Pass a brass rod through the cuistern lid , located onto the ball of the
float valve.
Then add a weight to the brass to depress the float more, for more water,
until the excess weight is balanced off. Remove the weight for default cheap-skate
flush.
First requirement as a porcelain/ earthnware cistern ,  an 1/8 inch or so 
hole in the porcelain of the bog cistern.
I've used a tile-hole cutter drill-bit on tiles before with no problems.
But on cistern porcelain got through the glaze ok but no further in than
about 1/8 inch deep.
 I've not tried sharpening as it doesn't seem blunt and I've tried oil,
then, water as cutting medium but no further in. 
I made a dam from blue-tac and made a crude drill bit from the shank of an
old HSS drill bit.
Grinding two flats on the shank end to make a sort of screwdriver blade.
Repeated sharpening 3 or 4 times.
With this got down to about 1/4 inch but then got concerned about breakout
on the inside.
This cover is hollow on the edges so presumably made by all angle rotation
of slip/paste
in a mould. I doubt if the central area is hollow though.
Tried firstly finding the internal matching point by putting some bits of
magnet
in the hole and tracing with iron filings but didn't work convincingly.
Then thought I'd try a Megger and presumably because of the dam
of water it gave a resistance trace so could find minimum position.
Could even use a 30 Meg ohm DVM as order 10 to 20 Meg ohms.
Found a small rod magnet and waving that about the outside hole gave
a very clear indication in the iron fillings on the inside.
With successively smaller "lollypop" grind stones in a hand drill
gradually zeroed in from the inside. Thickness about 10mm.
A tennis ball or 2 (if dislodged won't smash things) ,made a small hole and a cut
into it to load inside with
bits of lead. Glued a locator/protector to the ball valve to take the end of
the bit of brazing rod, must be long enough so is still located when 
bottomed out and internal hole is conical so does not bind with 
changing angle of the ball valve arm.
Cut a slot in a wooden wedge and for a refinement added
a 'crapometer' scale to the top surface of the wedge. Now just a
matter of working out a  self return mechanism to the wedge to take it back
to the minimum flush setting.

Bog blockage
Flush water stops flushing away immediately, takes a 
while to drop to normal trap level. Or 
sometimes the water in the bottom of the bowl 
disappears. Alright with just basin emptying , 
showers etc but if someone releases a bath 
of water or heavy rain downpour feeds into 
the system then the manhole overflows. 
Probably a blockage at the outlet 
, downstream , side of the first inspection 
manhole. The manhole is filling and the waste pipe 
is backing up to the bog so it can act as a syphon and draw water 
out of the trap. Manhole full of crud. First make sure 
you have a way of handling overflow of this crud 
on the downhill surface level of this manhole.
Drop a garden hose down through the crud angled into 
the anticipated direction of the outflow 
pipe. Push down as far as will go and only then 
turn on the water supply. Whether this clears the 
blockage or not clean off the end of this pipe 
before turning off the water supply to avoid 
back syphonage. If not cleared then a more major problem 
requiring rodding or digging etc.

Broken plastic lever inside syphonic cistern.
That connects square shaft of the handle to copper 
"S" hook that lifts the syphoning piston.
Rusting of a steel bolt had weakened 
the wrap around the square shaft so it sheared there.
Find the stoutest of cable ties, and 
tie tightly around the re-assembled lever.
Push bits of wedge from traditional sprung 
clothes pegs into the mid sides until you can't 
push any more in. Wrap small ties around 
the ends so the main tie does not fall off 
and envelop in hot melt glue to bind all 
together. When back on the shaft locate in place 
with a non-ferous washer each side and 
stop movement with another small  cable tie each side.
Incidently for poor flush function , this is the 
way to make it work. If this fails then 
replacement or something probably due to excess 
water going up past the plunger rod rather than 
up over the top of the syphon tube. Hold the handle at 
its uppermost position for 2 seconds to depress 
the plunger into the syphon chamber then pull 
the handle down sharply and hold there until 
syphonic action is definitely started. 
After that, getting inside the cistern and bending the 
float arm so the water level stops at a higher 
level but below over-flow level of coarse.
Also relevant , if you want to save water consumption 
by placing minigrip polythene bags of water in the cistern 
then fair enough but don't bend the float arm to reduce the 
height of water in the cistern as its the height, 
not the volume, that controls the 
syphoning action. If the lever occassionaly fails to 
return to the normal position and the cistern-full 
level is too high you can end up with a continuous 
stream of water flowing into the pan. The critical 
level is no higher than the "weir" of the 
inverted U at the top of the syphon and of 
course lower than the overflow outlet.

Checking the run/functioning of domestic sewer run.
Use blue dyed cistern loo block totally 
disolved in a basin of water and tip down 
a sink. Time from the start to seeing 
it a manhole. Some timing for a 1890s built 
sewer, slope not known. 1.5m vertical drop over 
1.5m horizontal through kitchen sink trap and 
narrow piping at various slopes and then 15m of sewer pipe run 
was 1 minute 50 seconds for a sewer with no problems.

Bosch GSR12 cordless drill
Intermittent non function
Two torx screws holding the motor to the gearbox had loosened 
and loaded the motor causing glazing of brushes and commutator.
To refix the loose screws the fibre reinforced end plate nearest the 
motor on a part twist comes away from the rest of the gearbox (not 
obvious from inspection).For anyone who has to reassemble the 
gearbox,the sequence of sun/planet gears is from motor to chuck-3 medium 
size cogs,3 smallest cogs ,4 largest cogs.The 2 steel dowel pins nearest 
the chuck lie parallel to the commutator axis for reverse rotational locking .

Bosch PBS 60 belt sander, 2002
Grating noise and burning smell.
The main bearing was seized and the outer bearing anulus was rotating 
and melting the plastic of the casing. No longer held in place because of 
melting the drive pinion disengaged from the spur wheel.
Owner must have been sanding something 
like formica giving fine plastic dust. Must have got into this double shrouded 
24x9x7 mm bearing and also with fibrous/damp material blocked the airway leading 
from belt to motor fan. Before pulling off the bearing 
with a gear puller, measure the exact distance from end of helical pinion 
back to this bearing as it sets the position of the armature. 
Before heating/freezing on new one, pack between fan and final bearing position 
with something of correct thickness, about 10mm.
Cover old bearing with some PTFE tape and place in the case half, 
that was not melted, due to outward forces and melting of the other half housing.
Place some epoxy in the melted section, push 2 halves of case together 
and hold together with rubber band until cured, leaving remade bearing housing.
Notes , no grease on the helical spur-wheel / helical pinion gearbox and 
resistance on 240V version between L & N was about 13 ohms, 
at least one of ther studs/holding nuts for the rubber belt pulleys are 
left hand thread.

Black and Decker GL320 strimmer
Intermittant stopping of motor a knock on the housing would start it again.
The brush housings are made of steel which had corroded.File back 
corrosion and emery paper  the sides of the brushes to allow free 
movement of the brushes.To gain acces to motor requires removal 
of the part circular cutter cover,undo the one underside screw (pack 
with grease on reassembly) releasing the plastic peripheral catch and 
rotating 1/4 of a turn.

Braun 5584/28 shaver.
Dropped on hard floor and ceased working.
A small bifurcated contact had sprung out of the burst case.
This was the main switch contact sheared off ,reset 
in with hot-melt glue string.Couldn't sensibly repair the broken 
anchor points of the cover but owner did not mind 
a ring of 3 interconnected small cable ties tightened external 
to the case

BT SGW 09UK 04 wallwart ps for answer machine (not seen)
leads pulled out of the modem/telephone plug 
repaired as in tips files.
With the polarising clip upwards
R,Y,-,-,B,G
T-R DC, B-G AC

Cat Eye Halogen Hyper bike lamp
No light output
Nothing to do with the 555 for half brightness 
setting.Due to rainwater ingress corroding one 
of the contacts (not obvious inside plastic battery 
housing) that connect the two outer batteries together.

CLI Add on for caller line indicator
Starting with a Binatone Clip 100 Caller Line Indicator
I wished to add a home-brew to audibly indicate when the
caller has "Withheld" his number and the "Unavailable" situation
so i don't even have to break away from whatever i'm doing to view the
display let alone lift the receiver for more junk.
Unavailable - usually foreign callers .
That is using the BT FSK toneburst that precedes the
fiirst ring pulses. These units decode the info and display
the caller's telephone number (if not disabled).
I now know I'm being plagued by random tele-sales
calls generated by computer. That is bastard systems dial
out multi-lines by computer and if anyone picks-up the receiver
the system switches to a sub-'human'  for the sales-call.
If these bastards are all tied-up doing their speal then the line
goes dead when i pick it up. A growing problem in the UK
and presumably elsewhere as well.
I know i will lose a few genuine UK callers ,who for
whatever reason have disabled the ident of their phone ,but I consider
retaining my sanity of more importance. I've taken a
spare one of these CLI units apart and there are 36 finger
contacts to the multiplexed LCD display - lower row of 14 large digits
,an upper row of smaller digits for time,incrementing count ,date
and other annotations.
For display -WITHHELD-  a uniquely identifying sitiuation is
3rd digit central horiz. bar present and
4th digit absence of top horiz. bar of the alphanumeric letter W
For display -UNAVAILABLE-
1st digit present central horiz. bar is unique
The microcontroller is epoxied over so inaccessible.
Driving the LCD from an af generator about 80Hz and
about 3V pk-pk square wave. Too high a voltage and
extra segments light, too high f and too feint and
too low f then flickers. Also for determination the lines 29 to 36
on the pcb show a different DVM "diode test" value ,
back to the micro ,to
ground, compared to the 1 to 28 lines (LCD disconnected).
The LCD has 8 back-planes,
(numbering on pcb) lines 29 to 36.
33 to 36 relate to the (9 and 2 half) small digits and legends
29 to 32 the 14 large digits
For first 3 large digits and segments a to g (a at top ,then
clockwise) and an extra
double vertical segment (h) giving central segment of W.
( The double segment 5h is angled to give the right hand V
segment of unaVailable and I of wIthheld as not full alphanumeric dispaly  )
Control 'matrix' (for just lines 1 to 6 and 29 to 32 and digits 1 to 3)
**/1 ,2, 3, 4, 5, 6,
29/1d,1c,2d,2c,3d,3c
30/1e,1h,2e,2h,3e,3h
31/1b,1g,2b,2g,3b,3g
32/1f,1a,2f,2a,3f,3a
lines 7 to 28 for remaining digits 4 to 14
For the UK anyway (digits 1and 2 blank) digit 3 only shows 0 for first digit
of disclosed
numbers so segment 3g off , 3g on only for the first - of "-WITHHELD-" and
first 2 digits blank.
the 1g segment is always off except for the first - of "-UNAVAILABLE-"
As far as i can readup for multiplexed LCDs segments only 'light'
when the timed stepwise voltages between BP and segment
exceed some threshold
followed by the reverse phase of this voltage.Then relying on
persistence to maintain till the next cycle if still driven.
For all other smaller differences in drive voltages
they stay unlit. To avoid doing timing circuits would it be possible
to construct simple analogue differential amplifier
monitoring lines 31 and 2 for
'unavailable' and 31 and 6 for 'withheld'.?
Just one phase sense ,say BP greater than segment by 2.2V or whatever
(set on test),
and ignore the the reverse phase which is only there to keep
the liquid crystal happy, as far as i know.
Integrated outputs each gating one of 2 tones or patterns on a sounder,
heard between the rings of the phone.
On second thoughts i will choose 4h (pcb lines 30 and 8 )  as
the identifier of the vertical W segment
of WITHHELD (AND the 5h 'I' of 'withheld' ) ,
and 5h ( pcb lines 30 and 10) V of unaVailable
as i seem to remember,very rarely, some displayed
long mobile phone numbers use all 14 digits for the
number of the phone so a 2,3,4,5,6,8 or 9 there would
falsely register as withheld or unavailable.
Contrast is achieved by drive voltage, for 4V 
battery supply
Contrast level 8 extreme output levels 0 to 4V
level 4 ,levels 1 to 4V
level 1,levels 1.6V to 4V
	Eventually made just a cut down version.
Just decoded lines 10 and 30 to give a buzz for 
unavailable and withheld situations only.
Both lines and battery connections to an external 
box. Single rail quad op-amp, 10 and 30 lines to 2 window 
comparators, integrator and piezo driver from Hex buffer pack. 
The level shift pots may be problematic with 
battery voltage drop.

Cyber Home ADL5 DVD player
or model AD-L528, 2 labels
from cold , a part second, partial feint display on the fluorescent, then
nothing.
All voltages agree with legends of 3.3,5,12,-20V dc and 4.4V ac to the
display. Standby voltage of 2.1V on switching power on.
RAT5V has 5V to the display/front controls board
with a PT6311 but no bus signals to it from the main board.
Main board main chip has a bonded heatsink over it,
Winbond 130 WG , CS4955 etc, but no activity on the board.
About 60 electrolytics and no IC protectors spied and likes of basic LM1458
have correct DC.
The heatsink will twist off the main chip quite easily.
Crystal CS98010CMEP
all electros check out
27MHz oscillation at the crystal oscillator and 5V is passed through the
gatekeeper KIA70 31AP and 3.3V rail is continuous to the Crystal chip
Standard linearised graphic logo of Crystal on the main chip
Tried disconnecting the deck. The owner seemed cagey , when I
asked about any precepitatory events. 
I get the impression it is possible to download software fudges to disable
regionalisation etc. If the owner did this with some corrupted source could
that action have caused a hardware latch-up, or do manufacturer's
deliberately put a close-down function in there. ?
I can see there is a disc in the drive, but I've not dismantled to remove
it, (no mechanical functions, switch responses or display).
http://www.adl528.com/cyberhome/AD-L528---ALD5/index.htm
I wonder if it can be a software bug
That site mentions
"On occasion unit will power on with no life at all - no standby LED"
with no mention of a reason/solution.
If it means dead without even the unit's display lit and no Standby LED
then that is what is here but permanently.
I've tried the factory reset sequence mentioned there.
Further onto the main board I thought I'd found a SM  inductor on a power
rail, blown as a fuse.
Legend L on the overlay but measured 1.2K ohm, but numbers over the
"inductor" itself said 122.

Yukon 77B Metal Detector, 1976
18V supply , with all 3 battery connectors seriesed 
together there is not the 12V supply to the speaker 
amp but a low level output for checking operation.
Search coils pin 1 common 2 5.8 ohm, 3 3 ohm, 4 4 ohm, 5 11.5 ohm 
in crescent order
National Semiconductor 8 pin DIL custom? chips marked 274 0-004 and 624
0-001 I would be interested.
search coil 20V p-p "tone burst" of 12uS period 
every 3.6mS for 1.4mS duration per cycle
Probably opamps
one marked 0-004 DC on pins 1 to 8
.8,4.4,3.6 1.5V tone burst,0 , .7,.6,9.5,9.5 
with exponential sawtooth of .8V p-p
nearest markerd 0-001
7.6 neg going pulses,3.3, 3, 0 ,
6.6V 7V p-p square plus exponential, 3.6mS
6.6V 2V p-p near square, 
6 7.5V p-p square, 9.5V
other 0-001
2.8,4.8,4.5,0 , 
5.4, 5.7, .6V exponential with pulse
positive 3V pulse
17.4V

Coin Magnum metal detector,1978
18V supply , with all 3 battery connectors seriesed 
together there is not the 12V supply to the speaker 
amp but a low level output for checking operation.
Search coils Gy-Or 19 ohm, Gt-Gn 121 ohm
Anyone know what the central lump covered in vacuum
moulded cover is hiding something active 
pinning 1,2 on long side clockwise to 6
DVM measurements on desoldered lump 
pins 1 to 5 29Kohm.
o/p coils 10V p-p  ,70 KHz on 
Gy lead with 2 phase "glitches"
0.2V on Green lead to 2V with metal.
Test pins I numbered 1 to 10 going clockwise 
from top left
1 &2 &3 70K pulses, 4.5V
4 4.3 to 3.9 V on metal 
5 3.8V to 2.6V
6 2V p-p rough sawtooth
7 5 to 6.6V
8 10V p-p
9 1.6V
10 7.6V t0 .7V on metal

C-Scope TR850D,1986 metal detector
Cannot be used in the rain without a cover 
over the control bax and speaker.
Original speaker was 35R, replaced with 16R + 15R small W/W

Digital Camera close up lenses for basic camera
Temporarilly fix a lens over the camera lens 
using rubber bands and gap padded out with 
a large rubber grommet to avoid scratching.
3 dioptre spectacles lens over the front brought 
focus to 16 inches
2 dioptre down to 11.5 inches
9 dioptre, or so, magnifying glass down to 4 inches 
in front of the lens, requiring the making of 
a "rostrum camera" mount for steadying.
From some aluminium bars cross-linked to 
make an X , with spring washer on pivot bolt for 
friction , 2 bars at right angle to 2 ends 
to make feet, covered with heatshrink to 
protect object. Then camera mounted via its 
bottom screw point and shutter release 
detailed elsewhere here, to avoid shake.

Dimplex FHS20 bathroom heater
Well i'm not proud. No output.
Built onto the frame of the heater element is 
a small thermal cut-out with a black reset button. It had been 
left switched on too long and did its job.

Dyson DA 001 cyclone vacuum cleaner
I took pity on this m/c dumped and had been rained on, half a pint of water
in the lower casing.
I've seen a hose attached to these beasts but took me 5 minutes of head
scratching to discover that secret, as no external hose attachement point.
Powered for 2 seconds, sounded ok but probably too slow and an excessive chemically/
ozone smell. Then tipped upside down
to get in case and water flowed out but had not been enogh to invade the
motor. Needs Torx 10 and 15 drivers to remove casings.
Fancy looking design appearance but the motor to me looks like the same sort
of vacuum cleaner motor of 30 years ago, 1200 W.
Nothing visibly wrong with stator coils or rotor coils. Resistance
measurements across and between
segments seemed ok. Bit of a noise from the brushes once a revolution, spun
by hand.
Pulled off the spade terminals to unlock and then release the brush
housings. Then spinning the armature with a finger nail against the flow and
gradually increasing the nail angle
a point was reached where one armature segment would catch. Measuring with a
1 to 2 inch micrometer then
the diameter across the commutator was 1.185 inches and 1.192 for the errant
commutator contact strip.
Plenty of life left in the brushes but spark erroded surfaces and broken
leading brush edge.
Ground back brushes with bench grinder then a one inch 
diameter cylinder grind stone to give approximate hollow 
profile.
Inductance measurements on the commutator
wer 180mH per diameter and
2.9,1.6,.4,.4,1.6,2.9 mH ( 1000Hz ac test V ) for 3 contacts either side
of any given contact so no cold shorts anyway.
I couldn't see what physical mechanism could cause one land to be
7 thou (mil) proud of the others. Also while still in use, why the brushes
weren't ground down to nothing with that sort of irregularity.
Had localised heating caused the copper of that land to somehow permanently
expand by carbon incorporating into the copper or unstick from core and 
restick perfecly aligned but proud ?
Centred to shaft in 4 jaw and turned down the commutator, 
tieing back the motor frame. Found a piece of 
tubing to sit on the chamfered fan end of shaft to localise 
a centre cutting tool.
On checking for
bridges discovered there must be a break in one of the rotor coils.
Must have disturbed it in turning. Traced which coil and it connects
with the errant commutator segment. Found the loop nearest the
unseen break. Then scraping back a few loops and measuring found 
one nearest the break - must have left a few turns but only surface 
turns are available like this. 24 commutator segments 12 rotor coils. 
Marked axially the 2 commutator segments 'in line' with the axial 
parts of each coil - separated by 10 segments. Then the segments 
connecting to this coil were 2 segments rearward on one side and 
11 segments rearward on the other side.
Stator wires 0.028 inch diameter and rotor coil-wires 0.019 inch.
Gingerly pulled the best bared coil away from bulk, cleaned back 
some more and soldered some 0.019 wire between 
there and the relevant sement. Put som mica in place, varnished back in 
place after fixing back this loose wire.
Gradually powered clamped to bench via 6Amp variac to about 
50% mains to bed in brushes. Mounted back in housing with bottom 
removed but motor held in with 2 large cable clips and spreader piece 
of wood so start torque does not displace things. Continued bedding 
in taking variac to 100% mains.

Ebac Humidifier 7, approx 1987
To remove back , remove 4 large and 2 
small sdrews. For the front requires prizing 
the bottom plastic from the wood surround 
with a driver throug the glue from underside.
Siezed bearing/s on the Magnelek motor ser 1Ga ... 
240V, .2A., 335R impedance protected 4 pole coil.
Need to flex a couple of the fan blades to remove.
Undo the fan nut and remove .
Then after releasing the 2 long bolts, bash 
the spindle breaks the motor intop 2 parts 
enough to clear gummed grease on spindle 
ends and one cup to free up.
Seting of + and maximum on controls
When working the rime builds up on the outer 
set of coils at the water drain end in about 
2 minutes, then 45 minutes before the insulation 
of the frost built up allows water to drip off, 
for room temp of 16 C.
In first hour , after switching off and 
collecting melted water , 150mL

Electra washing machine
Catastrophic flood
This machine so old the model number worn off. 
The rotating stainless steel drum is housed inside a static 
stove enamelled drum. This drum is secured to a ring holding 
a lump of concrete and the front hatch rubber seal. A long term 
leak had rusted the band that secures this static drum to the 
concrete section and snapped. This band is U channel formed into 
a large circle with closure/tightening made with a large nut and bolt. 
A triangular section rubber band forms the seal inside this channel ring and the 
flanges of the 2 drum sections. Spot welded  a couple of curved inch 
wide pieces of steel over the break to repair as a spare was not available 
(far too old). Cleaned the rubber seal and other surfaces. The cut ends of the 
rubber joined by a piece of studding pushed into the hollow 
interior so it would hold together around the gap area. The following is 
with hindsight the sequence to dis/reassemble. Remove the top pannel 
and the front door. "screw" the opened out (like 1 turn of a helix)
U band through the front hatch way ending with open ends at the bottom rather 
than as original at the top so the rough welded section is at the top where 
not having to retain water.
Turn the m/c over onto the front face and disconnect the 4 large drum retaining 
springs using an old large screwdriver with a small notch ground in the 
active edge. Push the screwdriver through the spring and push on the end 
of spring loop to disengage and later to reengage.Align rubber,U,and both 
drum sections and tighten the U band bolt (not much tension is required to 
form a water seal-the bolt anchors at the ends of the U were only spot welded) then reassemble.
An aside on washing machines:-as a short-term fix for sqealing/slipping 
motor V belts dust the belt with French chalk as used by sweaty-handed 
gymnasts to gain grip on rings and bars.

Electolux heater type (ammonia ?)old domestic fridge (3 foot high) .
Not exactly repair as it is still going after 40 years or so. Assuming replacement 
heater waould be obsolete the owner wanted me to measure the rating of the element. 
So switched off for 10 minutes the resistance of the element was 66 ohms and when 
plugged in (240 volt) still with the door open the continuous power use was 120 watts. 
So probably all such fridges similar.

Hayterette lawn mower, ancient
Briggs and Stratton
92902 4stroke 3.5HP 
It had not been used for some years after it had stopped working properly.
Changed the fuel and after starting would run for about 6 seconds
with no revs to speak of ,then die. Stripped down the carburettor and
reassembled and it works fine,i suspect it was mis-aligned compound
linkage between the throttle cable anchor rotating plate,the rotating plate
attached to the throttle butterfly and the governor arm (wind vane).
from: Bob Archambault
This automatic choke responds to "manifold" vacuum (i.e. vacuum on the engine
side of the throttle valve). Vacuum is routed thru a passgeway to a chamber on the
fuel tank (under the diaphragm) to pull the choke open against spring tension. It is
not temperature-related at all. When starting the engine, the choke remains mostly
closed because the throttle is open and the engine is not yet producing much vacuum.
After the engine starts and comes up to speed, vacuum increases and pulls the choke
open. If this results in a mixture that is too lean, the engine will begin to die out - which
will result in a reduction of vacuum, and the diaphragm spring will start to close the
choke. This will richen the mixture, and the engine will pick up speed again. A balance
is thus achieved. Soon after starting, the engine is sufficiently warm so the mixture with
a fully-open choke is perfect. However, when rapidly opening the throttle, the choke will
close momentarily due to the drop in vacuum, thereby briefly enriching the mixture. This is
similar in result to having an accelerator pump. The engine will speed up smoothly, without
tending to die out.
Champion CJ-8 plug and gap 28thou, no deep plug socket for this size 
but with nipple removed  could use a "3/4" inch socket shifted axially and the T bar got 
just enough purchase. 
Poor smokey running
Very dirty spark plug, cleaned with petrol, toothbrush and toothpicks 
to get into the recess.
Broken start cord.
2 metres of replacement cord, not all required, 
as dependendent on turns on the pulley. Not 
too thin as will "upset" /jam in the pulley slot 
if too thin.
Remove top cover, remove remnants of cord.
Find a bit of bar that will locate in the pulley 
where the spline from the engine fits. Also a 
ratchet socket for this bit of bar.
With the spring wound neatly in the retaining well 
and the end located on the pulley and in 
place in the cap. Wind the pulley anticlockwise 
with bar and socket wrench. Until no more and 
back off until the hole in the pulley and 
lead out hole in the top cover are in 
line and hold in place with a G-cramp, not too tight.
Pierce the cord 1/2 inch back from an end 
to take the end of a piece of wire. Loop 
the wire around the end of cord and lead out 
6 inches or so. Introduce through pulley 
and guide until knot seats into the pulley. 
Release G cramp and let pulley 
wind cord onto pulley, no further than 
cord exceeding space in the pulley and 
replace the handle.

Hitachi HMP 505 microphone
Broken on/off switch.
Remove on/off label to access screws. Undo XLR 
connector screw.
Unscrew mesh and desolder 2 wires and solder to a piece 
of wire to pull back through the hole , so can pull back 
the replacement

Honeywell S4565CF 1029 boiler controller
Gas fitter had wrong meter range when testing why 
gas valve not working.
He knocked out the 100R,1W dropper resistor, giving about 80V 
rectified ac on a DVM (ie no load), should be 
about 230V "dc", rectifiers were ok.
Original problem was intermittant 
failure of controller, due to poor solder leading 
to break at the 24V relay that supplies 
the HT to the solenoid circuit and flue fan
Uses spark generator coil 1300 ohm, .34H and about 0.2R
DT149c, LM33?, SI1 V120
18V relay hold/reset ?
Access, turn up long flap on the red part 
of housing under header pins, the grey section around 
the flame sensor and spark generator 
connectors slides out from the rest 
of the grey housing after turning back the plastic lock-tab.

Interplak  Electric Toothbrush (Interplaque)
Intermittant loss of the charging light but no loss of battery charge.
The problem ,would seem to have been a defective SM LED. In the process checking 
for possible 
switch mode supply problems monitored the output but consistent OK. Used a 
33uH "1/3 Watt size" (if it was a carbon resistor) choke as a pick-up connected 
to a scope. At maximum 
coupling the induc